Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The best thing about the new engine is knowing its 100% reliable at these power levels, with my old RB20 setup i always knew something would break sooner or later.

It turned out to be a track day in darwin at 35 ambient temps and some overboosting that killed my RB20.

Way i look at it no engine is ever 100% reliable, things can always fail, injectors clog, tips fall off spark plugs etc but i hear what you are saying.

You will find that an RB20 will make 200rwkws in its sleep, and will do so for years of driving. I have done a track day at Sandown on a 38deg C day makign 234rwkws and the thing didnt miss a beat. The kms on my RB20 in various states of tune and levels of boost has seen it make between 215-260rwkws since late 2004. They ARE perfectly reliable at 200rwkws as they are at 160rwkws. The same rulle applies, control coolant and oil temp, control detonation and there isnt a problem.

The same things that will kill a 200rwkw RB20 will kill your 200rwkws RB30.

As for the going past 200rwkws getting expensive. I agree, but not because of thigns liek brakes and suspension, but because you need injectors, AFM, good oil cooler etc. All R32 Skyline should have upgraded suspension by now, they are between 14-19 years old so expect owners to have tidied the car up with new shocks and springs and bushes before chasing power.

Re brakes, std brakes with good pads and thick rotors will handle the demands of a 200rwkw R32 without too much fuss. If you start running grippy tyres and +200rwkws then a larger rotor from a later model Skyline would help though.

All i ask the original poster is that they go for a ride in a decent R32 GTSt before they commit dollars to an RB25 upgrade. It sounds like money isnt growing on trees, and i think in such cases the money spent on the RB20 will always bag you a quicker car then simply converting to RB25 which will see you stuck with std turbo / ECU etc and makign 190-200rwks. It would be a good building block for future mods and big power, but if thats not in the picture then stick with upgrading the RB20.

Dont forget to check with your states requirements for engine transplants and engineering. Registering an RB25 in your car may be a few additional headaches come time to update your rego papers with the correct engine number

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228293-rb20-det/page/2/#findComment-4019868
Share on other sites

i personally think the amount of bullsh*t you go through upgrading to a bigger motor really means your comitting to at least another 2 or 3 years of 32 ownership which gives you plenty of time to sort a good allround setup out on a 25 or 30.

I do agree that you can get great results from the RB20 though and it has definitly been proven on this forum.

Also cubes i hear what your saying about my turbo size .82 would be great but i ended up just using a smaller one i already had, and yep she peaks at 5500-6000 i really thought the VCT would help it rev but it didn t do much for power just gave the torque curve another lump at least i can cruise round town in fifth saving juice now.

roy as for n othing being 100% reliable i guess thats true except for one 4AGEcorolla i used to drive....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228293-rb20-det/page/2/#findComment-4027846
Share on other sites

ppl are always willing to nock the 20's but thats cos theyre comparing them to a 25/26 not just an engine on its own :D as far as it go's as a motor theyre pretty rock solid and love to rev :D I might get a 25 in my 32 one day but i think if i was going to id just buy a 34 lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228293-rb20-det/page/2/#findComment-4028065
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...