Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in the morning when i turn my car on..(infact anywhere where the car has been sitting for more then 30 mins off) theres a ticking comming from my bay, but only at around 2500>3000, not when its idleing, i pop the hood to find its comming from the front of the block, on the right side (turbo side) of the rocket cover when i rev it.. after driving for about 10 mins it goes away, what the hell is this..is it serious? thanks for reading :) car: R32 GTST 1992

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228428-weird-stupid-noise-heeeeeelp/
Share on other sites

Skylines and engine bay noises, do search...

When were your timing belt idler and tensioner pulley's last replaced? I've had this issue, I reckon i was a few weeks away from a seized bearing, overheated and snapped timing belt :)

Sure its not your injectors? If you race the motor, does the noise disappear on the decel? What oil and when was it changed last?

Regardless, poke about the engine bay with a long screwdriver on your ear.

i change oil every 3000k's, it started actually after switching from valvoline to caltex synthetic oil....timing belt changed at 93 000ks, its done 132 000 now..

lol sorry i tryed search b ut came up with similer issues but not the same, it ticks only wen i accelerate,, then it goes away completely... its perfect at idle..

Edited by SXCR32

Check your starter. There is a thing called "the clicker" it is known as this because, well, it clicks. When you start the car it should click for about... oh, I would say 10 minutes max when running. Normally it is out of 2nd gear as well because the engine is warmer. Then the clicking is better on warm days etc. That could mean a bad starter. That is why they make it like that. X__X;;

Happend to me and I ignored it, then I got stuck in the middle of nowhere.

Just something to ponder mate.

If this IS the case, don't replace it. It can be repaired for like 25$ easy. Take it to a shop is all.

Edited by AKW

since it was after a oil change i would also have to go with a lifter. get this a bit at work. when you change the oil and put a new filter on you induce a fair bit of air into your engines oil gallerys which can enter a lifter pretty easily, usually it will go away after a bit of driving. if not, lifter could possibly be on its way out...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...