Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive just recently switched to an r33 series turbo turbo from stock i know there isnt much difference in the turbso and stuff but i was just wondering what intake does every one use? im just using the standard rubber with a bend and AFM then pod but it seems to slightly kink the standard intake because its only a soft rubber. was just wondering if any one has some pictures of the intake setup they are you using.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228585-r32-intake/
Share on other sites

Hey up matey, you can buy a hard rubber pipe one which is suppose to give it more flow, their are quite a few on ebay but they do cost quite a bit. I am thinking of getting one of these soon cause I can't see those bends in the stock pipe doing much good for the air flow.

Lee

Edited by amzer24
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228585-r32-intake/#findComment-4021479
Share on other sites

a hot piece of 10cm metal is not going to effect the temp of the air being sucked in by a turbo spinning at 100,000rpm.

going by that theory, people with full metal intake pipes must blow up engines daily.

If you are that worried, you can wrap it with heat wrap for another $5 or get it HPC coated for a few extra dorra

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228585-r32-intake/#findComment-4031470
Share on other sites

just looked at the '$5 intake mod'. I was thinking wouldn't the metal pipe get really hot resulting in hotter air entering the turbo? Correct me if I'm wrong.

What makes you think metal heats faster and easier than thin rubber? It doesnt...so nothing to worry about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228585-r32-intake/#findComment-4032617
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.
    • Yeah...I always start at the shift solenoids, because there's only a few reasons these will spook into limp mode, and bad shift solenoids is one ~ the other can be the shift control module (if you have steering wheel shift buttons)...it's easier to eliminate the solenoids first.
    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
×
×
  • Create New...