Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at fitting an aftermarket Steering Wheel like a momo Race to my R34 GTT, i heard some ppl say i can use a standard Boss kit and others say i need a boss kit with Hicas, can someone please help me out here to what i need.

Im also looking at fitting a Quick release hub so i can remove the steering wheel.

Any Info would be greatly appreciated to what i need to do all this,

i did try a search but couldnt find any info related to my question.

cheers and thanks

David

Id just take out the light in the dash, you've got the wheel off its like 4 screws.

Problem with fuse is in a crash ur passenger bag would want to work cause if it dont your passenger will have a nice head scar.

If you want to get technical there is a clip attached inside the wheel, this needs to be grouned. just attach a wire on a clip ground it to the wheel screws :D

Ill snap a photo if I take it off again.

Edited by DECIM8
  • 2 weeks later...

Horns pretty simple, I tightened the wire under the main bolt. One question though, why replace an airbag wheel with something like that? IMO the stock wheel looks much better.

I have a MOMO Commando on mine, racey and fancy, but not overly "out there"

Thanks guys for the advice, all good.

I decided to go with the momo because it was a cheaper option than buying a brand new 34GTT airbag wheel in mint condition - my current 34GTT wheel is peeling, plus i didnt pay for the momo wheel, so its all good.

this is probably a very stupid question .. but none of these aftermarket steering wheel support the standard airbag right ??

hmm.. I sence a very important neice market comming along!

Thanks all for the advice, the new wheel is on now and the horn works no problem ,airbag light is fine got the boss kit with the plug etc so very pleased, the steering wheel does protrude out slightly more than normal because of the D1 Quick Release hub but its not that noticable only when flicking the indicator on you need to extend your finger a little (not the lazy flick like normal while holding the wheel)

here is a couple of pics,

cheers,

David

post-7461-1218165360_thumb.jpg

post-7461-1218165383_thumb.jpg

post-7461-1218165402_thumb.jpg

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
×
×
  • Create New...