Importance Of Changing Spark Plugs

[R31Nismoid]

20min if you having a beer at the same time... LOL

Thats why it takes me a little longer, i spend half the time going back in for a refill or two while im in progress

[bubba]

NGK BCP6ES-11's gapped down to 0.813 (stupid dodgy cheap feeler gauges). I try to change them every time I do an oil change but didn't the last few times as my coil harness was falling apart. Finally got a new harness so changed my plugs last week for the first time in ages!

[R33GTRKid]

so for a rb26 with splitfire coils, injectors, SS's, dumps, manifolds and cams, what is the recommended plug? I have no issue changing em every 5,000 with oil and filter if needbe, which would lead me to suggest coppers, but tuner has suggested plats?

[MBS206]

I find it takes more time to work around things than take them off in most cases. I forgot I had to look for missing tools so maybe closer to 40mins but I have a look down each spark plug hole with torch and guess took my time a bit.

You guys must be pros :0

By far no Pro.

Before removing the plugs I also hit the holes with an air gun to clean the shit out, and prevent it going down the hole.

Also check down the plug holes also, although there's f**k all to see down there, and if anything goes in, you have f**k all chance of getting it out anyway.

Just have to learn how to use the tools properly, and you'll be sweet.

[arep3]

so for a rb26 with splitfire coils, injectors, SS's, dumps, manifolds and cams, what is the recommended plug? I have no issue changing em every 5,000 with oil and filter if needbe, which would lead me to suggest coppers, but tuner has suggested plats?

RB26 is even easier to change plugs. 10-15 mins with refills from the fridge easily. coppers all the way.

[mid life crisis]

about 18.000 ks on my current set of coppers no misfire at all i should get around and put a new set in soon just a slacker i guess

[mobman_69]

please get off iridiums they are crap

if the car is boosted higher then stock just buy ngk bpcr8es or the race equv

im running 13 pond on my rb20 and the gap is 35 thou

[W0rp3D]

I have iridiums (or atleast thats what the last owner said he has put in them) be strapped for cash atm and im doing a service this weekend, so i will give the coppers a go, what do you reccomend for an rb25det running .9 bar, atm it breaks down at 1bar but there is no pinging so i will probably wind the boost up a little more when done, and it seems gapping them to .8 is the way to go as well.

Also this is my first plug change on this car, any tips or pointers to make it go smoothly?

[335]

Noob questions.

So most people agree that coppers are better for non-stock cars and they change them often?

I have a R32 and I changed the turbo to a Rb33 turbo. Its set at .5 bar now and I will raise it to .8 bar. Does this mean that it is better to start using coppers now?

Sorry to hijack thread.

Thanks

[sly32]

i get a bit of a lumpy idle with using coppers, but i didnt regap them as i was at the track when i put them in, so if i gapped them right it woulda been sweet, as for iridiums, i have them in my car and try and use them as often as i can, i find they are pretty good with spark and yes they dont last as long as they are ment to but they last a very very long time, mine lasted 1 and a half years, 65000kms and that was with drifting on them at least 1-2 times a week, they finally died at a full day drift out at qr, first lap, i was pissed lol,

[The Dan]

There is nothing wrong with using coppers if you change them every 5-10k. But Brett is right on the wasted time thing.

Iridiums don't cost $120+ for 6. $85 for 6 is the going rate.

I had 260rwkw in an RB20. I revved to 8800rpm nearly every day. Iridiums for it's whole life. I used to change them out at 50k just to be sure. Coppers cannot last the distance and retain normal gap. The electrode melts down to nothing and you end up causing more ignition problems. It's incorrect to say that with a tuned car the Iridium plugs will not last. Buy the correct heat range and you won't have a problem. And you're an idiot if you think gapping plugs down to 0.8 is solving any problems. You are only masking the problem. Buy a set of splitfires, leave them at 1.1 and enjoy the increase in HP.

Iridiums are not crap. why do they use them in the R35 GTR? Why do all high end sports car now run them?

[Mr Jollwah]

There is nothing wrong with using coppers if you change them every 5-10k. But Brett is right on the wasted time thing.

Iridiums don't cost $120+ for 6. $85 for 6 is the going rate.

I had 260rwkw in an RB20. I revved to 8800rpm nearly every day. Iridiums for it's whole life. I used to change them out at 50k just to be sure. Coppers cannot last the distance and retain normal gap. The electrode melts down to nothing and you end up causing more ignition problems. It's incorrect to say that with a tuned car the Iridium plugs will not last. Buy the correct heat range and you won't have a problem. And you're an idiot if you think gapping plugs down to 0.8 is solving any problems. You are only masking the problem. Buy a set of splitfires, leave them at 1.1 and enjoy the increase in HP.

Iridiums are not crap. why do they use them in the R35 GTR? Why do all high end sports car now run them?

Its ok champ if your happy to pay 85 bux for 6 plugs and they work for u then thats great.

However iridium plugs have a lower arc over voltage then coppers which results in a colder spark for a given spark gap.

To get around this you run a larger gap for iridiums.

Most manufacturers use platinium/iridium plugs to reduce servicing items, thus making scheduled servicing cheaper. It has nothing to do with power or reliability.

I thought spitfires were pretty much only a replacement for std coils.

The only way to get more juice from your coils is to increase the ign dwell time, thus exposing the weakness of the rb coils and aftermarket equivalents, ther'ye small and heat up quick.

Please refrain from calling people idiots and for the record I run copper plugs with 1.1 mm gaps on a fairly std rb25det and they've done about 15,000 km without any issues, tho i'll replace them soon.

[The Dan]

Please refrain from calling people idiots and for the record I run copper plugs with 1.1 mm gaps on a fairly std rb25det and they've done about 15,000 km without any issues, tho i'll replace them soon.

Maybe you need to re-read my post then. And if you read it again you will notice that I said IF you believe gapping plugs down is solving anything....etc. So if you do, then you ARE an idiot. If you don't, then you're not. Sometimes it is required but not in any street car making under 500hp.

You copper plugs will last 15 - 20k, big deal. I never said there was anything wrong with using them. I did, however, say that they don't last the distance...in comparison to an Iridium.

The only thing I aim to do is dispell this stupid myth that Iridium plugs are the devil.

The iridium plug does not have a lower arc over voltage...where did you get that from? It REQUIRES a lower arc over voltage if that's what you mean. But this is a good thing as your standard coilpacks don't have to work quite as hard to keep up with the demands.

Splitfires aren't just a replacement for factory items. They output a higher voltage than the factory items. I have bench tested these compared to new factory coils and proven it. Splitfire coil packs start to break down between 45kv and 50kv, standard items only get to 35kv before breakdown occurs.

[heller44]

I know this might be a bit off-topic, but how have you tested the 'breakdown' of the coil pack? Are you just testing the insulation of the module, or are you injecting a known voltage at a known dwell time and measuring the output variance?

Have you tested both at normal settings and seen any difference in output generated?

[Mr Jollwah]

True, iridium plugs are not the devil, neither are copper plugs after all they're just spark plugs.

How did you test the coils?

[The Dan]

True, iridium plugs are not the devil, neither are copper plugs after all they're just spark plugs.

How did you test the coils?

I have an ignition tester. Can connect it to coil packs, modules, coil packs with module built in, cam angle sensors, crank sensors, injectors...pretty much anything.

I connect the wires of the tester to the coil pack and flick the switch. It fires the coil rapidly until you switch it off. Not sure on the exact time it uses but I can find out. I use a spark tester to increase the gap until I hear audible break down. It's fairly loud when operating so when you start to hear juttering you can tell it's struggling.

I can throw a vid up if anyone really wants to see. But that would require me having to go out and hook it all up etc.

[Mr Jollwah]

Can you adjust the dwell time of your tester.

Do you have a rough idea of the dwell time that you test at?

Sounds like a good bit of gear tho.

[heller44]

Sounds like a comprehensive way of testing them, thanks for the answer.

[The Dan]

I'm trying to upload the vid to show you guys what happens but having no luck at the moment

[The Dan]

http://www.erd.com.au/datalogit/27072008007.mp4