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Was changing the clutch fluid in my car and now the friction point is like half an inch from the floor, which is a tad bit annoying when it was alot higher before.

I first bled the master cylinder, then the "little black box" or the fluid separation box (as per the manual), then the slave as per the manual, however the manual seems to say to bleed it in a means different to how me and the old boy did it.

We did it as following,

1. Person at the bleeder cracked the bleeder open,

2. Pedal depressed

3. Person at the bleeder closed the bleeder

now this seems all good but, the pedal doesnt seem anywhere near as stiff as before. To boot ttho the method the manual used is different. Can anyone tell me which one or how they did theirs step by step to clarify!

Cheers, David

post-12041-1216432256_thumb.jpg

Edited by R32Abuser
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228751-changing-clutch-fluid-and-bleeding/
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I pretty much bled my clutch the same way as that pic says.

Fill the master up with fluid, get someone to pump peddle 20 times, have the person holding the pedal down on the last pump while you open the valve at the slave cylinder, once all air escapes, close valve then helper to pump peddles again. Remember to hold the pedal down while you open up valve until you close it, then continue pumping again. Keep doing it until there's no longer bubbles/air coming out from the slave bleeder hole.

Can't really tell you whether or not it feels harder or softer than it previously was because I went from a cable clutch to a hydraulic clutch.

yep the key is to pump many a times before cracking the bleeder for each respective component. I went from highest to lowest point (master, then separator, then slave) in order of bleeding. And it seemed to work. Only thing i would have tried is doing it in reverse order as air usually rises. However my pedal seems to feel about the same as what it was so unless someone tells me other wise i beleive i will leave it as is.

Any input is appreciated.

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