Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , someone on that form mentions tuning an RB25DET on E85 and the owner seems pretty chuffed .

From what I've read E85 is I think now available through two outlets in Sydney , one at 127 Victoria Rd Roselle and I believe another on Warringa Rd Forrestville ?

I rocked up to the Roselle one yesterday and filled a couple of smallish fuel containers (17L) so I can boost the E10 that my dinosaur Subaru RX Turbo is running to E15 . If the mileage and performance stays the same I'll try mixing in a slightly greater amount to get E20 .

The first thing you notice about this stuff is the smell - almost too good to pour in your tank !

A feller from Willall ? Racing I think in Adelaide is singing huge praise for this stuff having tuned later Commode door V8's to run it . He mentions that they can feed a fair bit more ignition advance with E85 and it tunes a bit like VP109 or Sunnoco 110 octane ULP .

He's also tuned a few "Ricers" and they like the stuff as well .

I've just finished reading through this thread http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=99917 and there are many interesting opinions floating around .

The ones I wanted to know about are the fuel system ills of using E85 in a system not originally intended for it .

The few snipets mentioned were injector O rings changed when installing larger squirters , people reckoned the factory 11 yr old ones looked pretty maggoty anyway so starting out with new genuine ones pre E85 was a good starting point .

A few have mentioned fuel lines turning a bit gluey but again I suspect they are factory originals on 10 + yr old cars .

Can we assume that standards for fuel system hoses and seals have changed to cope with ethanol blended fuels ?

Lets hope we can get more E85 servos esp in Sydneys southern and western suburbs . I have a feeling that once it's more readily available and a few more cars tuned for E85 it'll really take off .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

I was a bit skeptical about this fuel at first, but have heard some great factual info about this fuel from my tuner.

Higher ron rating

Burns colder,able to run more timing without knock showing

Very consistent quality from batch to batch

Cleans your fuel system,including rust from your tank.

And a hell of alot cheaper

My tuner is starting testing on it very soon,and wants to make sure that it does whats been claimed before he recommends it to customers.

Well it's quite popular in the US and the bald headed kangaroo often hops in the same direction .

I cynically suspect Shell worked out that achieving 100 RON was cheaper and easier with ethanol blended garden variety ULP . I also think that the dreaded eco natzi can be more easily mollified with this stuff than anything else currently available .

The impending Generals Alcodore means they must be taking this fuel pretty seriously .

I reckon bring it on , 105/110 Ron at the servo for ~ $1.26L sounds like a godsend . Everything I've read points to this stuff producing emissions a lot less "illegal" than most/all petrol tuned cars so another ace up the sleeve .

One thing that also looks positive is that the greater consumption quoted may not work out to be as bad as I thought . Me thinks that possibly enough extra timing can be screwed it to make an engine more efficient in it's use of fuel and air so you could possibly come out in front performance and cost wise .

My experience with the water cooled dak dak , stop laughing Gary , on E10 is a bit more low down torque and slightly better throttle response . Fuel consumption is unchanged - 10 to the 100 . My self blended E15 is in at the moment so I'll get back on that in 7 days .

If this can be had from a 282K old 2 valve/cyl dunger I think more sophisticated engines should do far better . The LS1 mob are talking about 10.5-11:1 CR turbocharged engines working well so that's food for thought .

I really should have gone for 740's instead of 555's , cheers A .

Only downside is, I don't expect it to stay at $1.26, as soon as the gov't stop the ethanol subsidies to the companies and as soon as they tax it at the same rate I reckon it will be as or more.

small world!

still happy, useing about 2-3 more litres per hundred, but i'm a hoon.

running a gt30 around 22 psi my 740's are just hitting 90%, at 7.8 afr's

next ill need a fuel pressure gauge to lift the pressure a smidge

180 or 200 , yes it was your input at LS Edit that I was reading . I'd certainly like to hear anything you have to say about your R33 GTS25T E85 experience .

I now have a spare S1 RB25DET head to play with and I'm beginning to wonder if material could be added to it's chambers to pump the static CR to 9.5:1 - if this fuel becomes readily available . There's alwas water injection to fall back on if it doesn't eventuate .

Very interesting about the 740's and 90% duty cycle , I'm not so sure 555's will be enough - anyone want to swap new for new Nismo 555's for 740's ?

Cheers A .

No worries disco, I havn't any power numbers to relay yet, but my seat of the pants dyno is reading much higher!

I have read drag racers in the US lifting CR for the e85 by shaving the head, couldn't say whether this would be possible for the RB's.

Cold starts aren't great but i have improved it by adding more cranking duty at 10+(double), I dont see this being a prob in summer.

I tune my own car more as hobby and have been trying to get some info from Ls1 and silvia sites but it seems all they want to share is whats in my wallet!

The scary part is this stuff just wont knock so I havn't pushed the timeing yet only 2-3 degrees more so far, will need to get on the dyno to see where the torque peaks, for the first time since i started fiddleing with fc's i'm considering unplugging the hand controller, dont need to worry whether it's knocking anymore!

Edited by 180or200

Yes I think that if E85 gives us the ability to run as much timing as does any good that's way to go , sort of what Mafia was doing with water/alcohol injection .

I have to wonder if engines like his had 9.5 to 10:1 CR and a larger turbine housing what the result would be - provided of course there was some way to prevent detonation .

I may be optimistic but it sounds like the potential is there .

Can anyone remember what the GMS cars ran CR wise (9.4:1 ?) and what the fuel was - probably some witches brew .

Cheers A .

Hi all , someone on that form mentions tuning an RB25DET on E85 and the owner seems pretty chuffed .

From what I've read E85 is I think now available through two outlets in Sydney , one at 127 Victoria Rd Roselle and I believe another on Warringa Rd Forrestville ?

I rocked up to the Roselle one yesterday and filled a couple of smallish fuel containers (17L) so I can boost the E10 that my dinosaur Subaru RX Turbo is running to E15 . If the mileage and performance stays the same I'll try mixing in a slightly greater amount to get E20 .

The first thing you notice about this stuff is the smell - almost too good to pour in your tank !

A feller from Willall ? Racing I think in Adelaide is singing huge praise for this stuff having tuned later Commode door V8's to run it . He mentions that they can feed a fair bit more ignition advance with E85 and it tunes a bit like VP109 or Sunnoco 110 octane ULP .

He's also tuned a few "Ricers" and they like the stuff as well .

I've just finished reading through this thread http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=99917 and there are many interesting opinions floating around .

The ones I wanted to know about are the fuel system ills of using E85 in a system not originally intended for it .

The few snipets mentioned were injector O rings changed when installing larger squirters , people reckoned the factory 11 yr old ones looked pretty maggoty anyway so starting out with new genuine ones pre E85 was a good starting point .

A few have mentioned fuel lines turning a bit gluey but again I suspect they are factory originals on 10 + yr old cars .

Can we assume that standards for fuel system hoses and seals have changed to cope with ethanol blended fuels ?

Lets hope we can get more E85 servos esp in Sydneys southern and western suburbs . I have a feeling that once it's more readily available and a few more cars tuned for E85 it'll really take off .

Cheers A .

Martin Donnan from Willall Racing in Adelaide is the guy I reckon your thinking of. I overheard a conversation between him and some others at a race day at Mallala regarding this new E85 fuel.

  • 4 weeks later...

Thought i'd better see what this e85 was showing, bottom lines are from a dyno dynamics run against a mainline, so all being equal looks awesome.

On pulp I had alot of knock if I pushed past 240 rwkw, as u can see was able to put in more psi, awesome stuff!

the torque line is arse about.

gallery_34685_2764_65001.jpg

Thought i'd better see what this e85 was showing, bottom lines are from a dyno dynamics run against a mainline, so all being equal looks awesome.

On pulp I had alot of knock if I pushed past 240 rwkw, as u can see was able to put in more psi, awesome stuff!

Not that i am a non believer (i was when V-Power Racing RB26s above 300rwkw picked up a tasty 20-30rwkw midrange)

And probably will have a map for the E85 here in Vic as its out any day now i believe.

But...

If your knocking above 240rwkw with a GT30 on PULP - you seriously have problems dude with the tune or other associated parts.

The fuel is just masking a clear problem and that graph is inflated because of the fuel countering whatever issues you have

Not that i am a non believer (i was when V-Power Racing RB26s above 300rwkw picked up a tasty 20-30rwkw midrange)

And probably will have a map for the E85 here in Vic as its out any day now i believe.

But...

If your knocking above 240rwkw with a GT30 on PULP - you seriously have problems dude with the tune or other associated parts.

The fuel is just masking a clear problem and that graph is inflated because of the fuel countering whatever issues you have

your right the fuel is masking a problem, heat, the gt3076 i have is bastard with a std 25 comp cover, i presume thats why it hits the wall, just cant flow anymore! and is it inflated with 4-5 psi pushed in it!

Edited by 180or200

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...