Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

car is now going. Changing gears is some what tempromental. I change gears, and get crunching. Could this be due to gearbox not having right oil in it.

i have used some castrol 75 W 90 W gearbox oil.

am a bit worried it could be stuffed, with a synchrose, but the gearstick does flow into each gear pretty easily.

any thoughts. or recommendations....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22885-gearbox-feels-like-shit/
Share on other sites

how much oil did you put in? because i was having the same problem....but mostly going from 1st-2nd...

its really important to only fill till it spills out from the filler on a FLAT surface...cause first time i changed mine i didnt lower it back down to get rid of excess...

did that last weekend and i had about 400ml too much and now it shifts heaps better....

im kinda having a little of the same problem too.. when i first take my car out in the morning when i go from 1st to 2nd, 2nd feels really tight but after about about 5 minutes of driving it loosens up and goes normal. what up with that huh. also sumtimes when your driving kinda normal and in 3rd changing into 4th it wants to jump out of 3rd while your changing..kinda like it cant wait to get in 4th.. what do you stooj`s reckon

Its got to do with the viscosity rate of the oil.When the oil is cold,its thicker which makes it hard to change gear but when it warms up,it thins out and gear change is easier.I know its expensive but try fully synthetic g/box oil.problems will be fixed.

I just did the gearbox oil on my R32.

I bought REDLINE lightweight Shockproof.

It's excellent.. I can't recommend it enough.

my second gear use to crunch but now it doesn't do it at all.

anyway, that stuff sells for $25 per litre.

I just bought the 3.78L bottle, $100.

The R32 GTST gear box takes 2.8L for those who are interested.

I know $100 sounds expensive at first, but when you consider that you change your oil every 5000kms and if you are using like MOBIL 1 synthetic, it costs you at least $50 each time.

how often do you change the gearbox oil?

It's a very good investment...

I found my one from Croydon Racing Development (or whatever they are called now...in silverwater, sydney)

i bleed the clutch lines again. and the brass button feels a lot better....

But then the clutch pedal welds snapped. So the metal casing which bolts up to the car makes the pedal stick behind the brake pedal.

was lucky i was only 2 minutes from home when it happened.

i am gonna do the gearbox oil again...

Does the clutch grab right at the floor ? does it feel like the clutch is not disengageing proply?

This happend to my car when i converted it to manual too.. my mate made me a adjuster that works a treat. he will sell one to you for a price. pm me if interested

It fixed mine RIGHT UP i was stoaked!!! now i gotta fix 4th and 5th gear syncro in box ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...