Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

Just need a little technical support, my GTR is running the standard airbox with a K&N filter. My mechanic is telling me to go for some pods and get rid of the factory airbox.

My car already has an HKS drag intercooler and 3.5 inch exhaust from the turbo. I have been told that the only thing letting the car down is its breathing ability and that I should expect a noticable difference.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/
Share on other sites

If u do make sure you build some type of cold air intake (see: forced induction area), otherwise you're just going to be sucking in warm air which may give you worse performance.

Some argue pods are a waste of time compared to a good panel filter, but they sound better :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/#findComment-491283
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Canadian GTR

Leewah

Did any of those GTR's have any mods to their standard airbox,

extra cold air feeds running into their standard box or airflow meters??

No. Because of the way the airbox feeds from the front of the bonnet anyway, it was cold air already feeding to the turbos.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/#findComment-491337
Share on other sites

Leewah,

I guess what I'm trying to find out is if the standard box provides enough air to the turbos given the mods I have, or would an additional air supply be benificial, say for example if I added another cold air feed from the front bar into the standard box.

Or would that be over kill ??

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/#findComment-491402
Share on other sites

There is no real such thing as overkill when it comes to feeding the turbo cold air. What you need to try to accomplish is giving the turbo as much air as possible as long as the air is cold and directed in a straight line. Turbulant airflow has a very negative effect on the effectivness on a turbo. We found a 4 rwkw loss by simply removing the air pod. We found that the air pod directed airflow in a less turbulant direction so we left it on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/#findComment-491453
Share on other sites

hehe all i can say is if u slap on that pod go get an engeneers certificate for it or when u get pulled over the nice little men in blue will be putting a nice little yellow sticker on your windscreen, and acting as if there mechanics when there telling you to put back your origanal air filter lol :) good luck mate you got to weigh up the for and against mate but id put one on anyway :D

and if your going to do it do it proply with the right filter dont get some REPCO $5 filter just to save money get quality stuff its enhances the performances and last longer as they say you get what you pay for

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/#findComment-491772
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Canadian GTR

I think I will leave the box standard and try to feed it more air through the front bar.  

If anyone had done/tried this on a GTR I would love to know !

Thanks for the help

I know a couple people both in GTRs who run a standard airbox and his best time so far is 11.4@124MPH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/#findComment-491942
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone,

Thats the great thing about these forums you can chat with people who have been there and done it rather then taking the advise of a mechanic who wants to make more money !!

I'm going to stick with the standard box and get my hands on some cam gears next !!

I will probably need some more help when I get closer to buying them.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22898-gtr-airbox-advise/#findComment-492974
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately,  it feels like it's been on the decline for nearly a decade. Especially as wallet racing became popular with them(biggest wallet can pay off a car that wins). It seems like a different mindset kf ownership these days. But, hopefully people like yourself keep some of the skyline scene alive.
    • A bit of data is always good, beats the Facebook experts with their opinions Although the kWs aren't anywhere near what you are after, it should give you a good indication. I have Bosch 1480cc injectors, often called 1650cc (only when run at 4bar). I run mine at 3bar base so I don't thrash the fuel system. Up top, making 437kW with boost dropping, injector duty is at 69% on E80 (might have had some residual 98RON in there)  
    • I have some downtime due to winter, and just wrapped up converting the car over to flex fuel. We don't get E85 at the pump over here in Canada, but I will be running Ignite E90 Race gas. I'll be mixing it with 99-100 RON pump gas and shoot for 50% ethanol content, up to possibly 85% content if there's any noticeable gains. Here's the question. Most I'll ever want to hit is ~600rwkW. I've currently running 1200cc injectors and want to keep them under 90% duty cycle. As per some online injector calculators, I should be good with 1200's well past 600rwkw on E85. As per other calculators, I'll need 1600-2000cc's. The variety is rather amusing.  With you Australians having E85 at the pump, what realistic duty cycles are you seeing in those kW ranges on E50 & E85 on your injectors? Thanks, 
    • No issues here with my PRP gears in an OEM pump housing. I did confirm all housing clearances were to spec prior though. Cheers. 
    • Thread is a bit old but figured id give my input anyway just incase. Have had lots of water problems in my R32 and was getting sick of wet tools in the boot and water filling up half my taillights. I ended up finding that whenever my car had been repainted they didn't reseal the taillights to the body of the car so water was just flowing straight into the boot, this is amplified by all the water around the bootlid being directed down to the taillights so would get pretty wet whenever I washed the car or it rained. You could probably use silicone to seal them to the body but I think from factory they use a roll of automotive grade butyl rubber. Hopefully this helps you if that ends up being how the water is getting in on your car!
×
×
  • Create New...