Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

atmospheric BOV's sound heaps better, especially when you hit fullboost and release throttle and hear this almighty TSCHHHH come from the car, is much better than having a goddamn muztek style dose lol

I don't think atmo bov's have any performance value since it's venting the aircharge into the bay, but i like the sound of mine at least, so yeah, guess its a personal preference for the noises you like to hear out of your car lol.

You could block your standard BOV i.e. with a piece of sheet metal.

My mate's R32 is running a fairly big turbo without a BOV, so as the air recirculates through the compressor housing it makes a HUGE whistle/chirp sound, sounds like feeding an air compressor through a massive flute.

When he's on my right and my window's down he changes gear and splits my f**ken ear drum open. My ears nearly bleed.

Good times :thumbsup:

Stock is the smart decision

But if you must have an atmospheric bov, the novelty wears off and you eventually feel like an idot, not to mention it will hurt if you get a yellow sticker, anyways go with a turbosmart i think they sound the best. This may hurt the hks fans but DONT get a hks ssq they sound crap like a large high pitched whistle but it is a very popular choice. So obviously i am different in taste in that aspect.

But i would deffinetly reccommend a stock bov.

  and3_3 said:
Get an after market one, its a novelty everyone wants at first.

Yes, they certainly are a novelty...

  R338OY said:
You could block your standard BOV i.e. with a piece of sheet metal.

My R31 ran with no BOV, FMIC and apexi pod filter and made the filthiest fluttering noises you've ever heard. Sounded fantastic.

I've tried the blanking plate on my R33 and the ECU does NOT like it. Pops and farts like crazy on gear changes, so I went back to standard. With the BOV blocked it definitely felt crisper on gear changes but the extra backfires meant it wasn't worth it.

  Kinks said:
Yes, they certainly are a novelty...

My R31 ran with no BOV, FMIC and apexi pod filter and made the filthiest fluttering noises you've ever heard. Sounded fantastic.

I've tried the blanking plate on my R33 and the ECU does NOT like it. Pops and farts like crazy on gear changes, so I went back to standard. With the BOV blocked it definitely felt crisper on gear changes but the extra backfires meant it wasn't worth it.

Well if you want that back if you get it tuned with apexi pfc to suit it will run fine

  Pattygtst said:
Well if you want that back if you get it tuned with apexi pfc to suit it will run fine

You can never get even a PFC l-jetro to run fine without a BOV, as the fluttering load cells are the same cells that you see at cruise, so you can only tune it to suit one of the conditions... runs rich on gearchanges

Kinks how does my daily ride have any bearing on a thread about blow off valves? begone troll.

I hate dosing, just makes me think of wankers in VL Turbos, and the noise gets grating on my ears very quickly.

Mine's a Turbosmart Supersonic BOV, I like the sound, and the cops around here have never given a toss about it, and yes ive let it off near them accidentely, but chances are if they are pulling you over to defect you they're going to make something up if they dont find anything anyway. Having the stock crossover pipe helps, if I ever did get defected for it, its easy to swap with the stocker.

Can't find a video of anything that sounds like it, needless to say it dosen't sound like one of those godawful Blitz (or was it HKS? high pitched whistle) ones which sound like something from Need For Speed.

Edited by bozodos

I'm due for a new BOV as my standard one leaks like a sieve (and yes I have tryed the "no more leaking BOV mod" to all you smarties with your stock BOV's)

I'll go a turbosmart plumbback, Hopefully it'll be quite.

I used to think the BOV noises were pretty cool, but after seeing (rather hearing) every other Tom, Dick and Harry with one on there piece of shit I don't want a noisy one.

I hate it when people put them on there car to trick you into looking at there Daihatsu's and other pieces of crap.

  -Dukes- said:
I'm due for a new BOV as my standard one leaks like a sieve (and yes I have tryed the "no more leaking BOV mod" to all you smarties with your stock BOV's)

Is the BOV rooted? If the spring isn't tensioning the diaphragm properly put the BOV in a vice and crush it down a little. That will increase spring tension, meaning more boost needed to force it open.

I've read about doing this on SAU, haven't tried myself (but the 'stop leaking BOV' mod worked a treat :blink: ) so if your car turns into a fireball blame the shonky b**tard that originally said it.

kthxlater

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...