Jump to content
SAU Community

Green 1995 R33 Gts4 Non Turbo Skyline For Sale


Recommended Posts

people with turbo's have to remember we cant all drive a turbo these days, AYYYYY :blink:

there pretty much aimed at the P plater now like me and i brought mine for 9G (only running on 5) and have spent 4 on it reconditioning it. If you do find a young skyline enthusiast thats what the prices are for really. I dont see them as being a "cheeper" car than a turbo just a different option.

Also the guys saying a turbo cost more is a load of shit: Proof

Make Nissan

Family Skyline

Model Variant GTS25t type M

Year January 1995 to 1996

New Price 281.8 ten thousand Yen

Body Type Coupe

Seating Capacity 5

ETC ETC

Make Nissan

Family Skyline

Model Variant GTS-4

Year January 1995 to 1996

New Price 306.4 ten thousand Yen

Body Type Coupe

Seating Capacity 5

ETC ETC

take a look at the site. http://www.motortraders.net/imports/spec.asp?id=627

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's not 100% proof because that site has a lot of stats wrong for each car so who says price is correct the non turbo are ALWAYS a cheaper option the dont have big brakes like turbo cars they don't have the same K-frame in the rear no rear sway bar possibly a smaller sway bar up front the list of changes goes on

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gts4 = Attessa

a gts its way cheaper than a gts4 anyway and a turbo. The gts4 has a few other gtr bits on it aswell and the brakes dont look like my mates gts brakes so all in all for a non turbo it should be more than a gts i recon :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the brake look like my old ones i not upgraded to GTSt brakes and rotors all round

yes

GTSt > GTS4 > GTS

but put a stagea engine in your GTS4 and it goes like so

GST4t > GTSt > GTS

and obviously GTR > all

un what over GTR bits are you thinking because my research shows very little there would be more parts shared from the RS4 but...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with madaz. Andrew, thanks for helping out with the sale =D however, l do find it hard to believe that the GTS4 was dearer than the Gtst when new, but l do believe that GTS4's demand a higher price than Gtsts due to P plater restrictions, and hence the price drop.

CAR IS NOW $11,500!!!!

THIS IS A 1k saving of original asking price.

NEED IT GONE!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

no problem just adding my opinions and not looking to start anything or play the disagree game :P i wouldnt be amazed if it cost more just because of attessa (remember it was 1995 - 1998 so it was still special "expensive")

anything to do with my steering is GTR. power steering pump, ETC

obviously the drivetrain. few other small bits

im stuck in the P plater world. So i oversized my pistons to 87mm :ninja:

goodluck with sale and it looks so clean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...