Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Okay, found out that brand new they are 4.05mm each!

If they are 2.75mm each now, would they suit a rebuild OR could i just put them in as is?

Potentially how long could this clutch last for with this knowledge in hand? THanks.

no idea. you need to fine out what the actual thickness is of the friction material not the plate. you need to know the new thickness, and the replacement or minimum thickness.

even that knowledge still doesn't tell you if the intermediate plates are warped? or the diaphragm is shagged.

iv got one on my line. have had it now for 1.5 years been smashing it the entire time. prior owner in japan installed it so not sure how long it has left in it i would say about 20-30% more play. makes so much noise from the floating plate especially in low revs. but for drag racing and pounding the clutch it can take a beating for a long time. im getting rid of mine once it dies as the vibrating noise at low revs gets annoying after a while. lots of other options out there. i love the lightened flywheel that came with it though. revs up very quickly wants to sling shot off into the distance without even giving me warning.

iv got one on my line. have had it now for 1.5 years been smashing it the entire time. prior owner in japan installed it so not sure how long it has left in it i would say about 20-30% more play. makes so much noise from the floating plate especially in low revs. but for drag racing and pounding the clutch it can take a beating for a long time. im getting rid of mine once it dies as the vibrating noise at low revs gets annoying after a while. lots of other options out there. i love the lightened flywheel that came with it though. revs up very quickly wants to sling shot off into the distance without even giving me warning.

From what you have said your clutch must not be fully engaging to be rattling around when your revs are low. If it is rattling abit when your idling at say a set of lights with your foot on the clutch that is normal but to be rattling when your foot is off the clutch and the clutch is engaged should mean something is wrong in my experience. I had an exedy twin plate and never rattled except when i pushed my foot on the clutch.

GTR-PWR. For that price i wold say your better off getting a brand new one. That way you know it will last a long time and everything about it will be new. Eliminates the chance of buying and finding out there is something wong with it like beer baron said. From memory they are only a few hundred more new but that was a couple of years ago.

yeh wouldnt say rattled when foot was off the clutch. but at low revs. it was very noisy. more like a heavy vibrating sound. i was actually not going to buy the car because i bit worried of the noise. but had a vehicle inspection and yeh was just the clutch. 1.5 years later still drives the same. highly recommended for heavy foot pounding though. great for drag racing.

From what you have said your clutch must not be fully engaging to be rattling around when your revs are low. If it is rattling abit when your idling at say a set of lights with your foot on the clutch that is normal but to be rattling when your foot is off the clutch and the clutch is engaged should mean something is wrong in my experience. I had an exedy twin plate and never rattled except when i pushed my foot on the clutch.

No, not necessarily. My Supra's twin-plate (with lightened flywheel) is incredibly noisy at idle with my foot off the clutch (ie: with the car in neutral). In fact, it's a LOT noisier that way than when the pedal is fully depressed. I've had the car inspected and there's definitely nothing wrong with the clutch. Possibly it could be because you've only had a twin-plate with a sprung centre and anti-rattle clips, and maybe yours didn't have a lightened flywheel? That alone can be responsible for a lot of the noise. Mine is the HKS GD Clutch Pro which is the more racing oriented version, which means it doesn't have anti-rattle clips, it has an unsprung centre, and doesn't use the sequential plate engagement system that the Clutch Max uses. Under load, under 2000 rpm, it is INCREDIBLY loud. As in, maybe twice as loud as the car itself. So I think it's just down to the individual clutch/flywheel design?

I've ridden in a Skyline that had a more road oriented Exedy twin-plate with a sprung centre and lightened flywheel and it was considerably quieter than mine. I could only hear the rattle from inside the car (with the windows up) if the engine was at low revs under load, not at idle. It was incredibly easy to drive, too. Mine, however, is a bit of a bitch :sick:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • H2 (for cars) will never happen. It's not reasonable for any number of reasons. It's also not reasonable for almost all of the industrial uses that the fanbois say that it will be used for, again for a large number of reasons. There are some cases where it will be good. But, even those will be massively hampered by the economics. The only way that H2 can be economic is if we somehow manage to get from where we are to the other side of the economic-valley-of-death in which no-one can operate. You need there to be sufficient renewable generated electricity to be available so that it is effectively free. Once you are there, you can do whatever the hell you want and hang the efficiency. But until you get there, the ever diminishing value of electricity makes it harder and harder to encourage businesses to build the new generation capacity, and they will simply stop investing in generation projects. (I kinda think there needs to be just government money spent on building the required capacity in a non-commercial way, similar to how the first fossil fueled grids were built, as national-government owned utilities. And probably some nuclear in there to start. But this all should have started 10-15 years ago to avoid the chasm of death that we face right now). Synth fuels will be much more likely, but will only occur is there is at least some renewable H2 production, because you need H2 to do it. And you need stacks of free (or at least extraordinarily cheap) energy because assembling molecules back into fuels is exactly the opposite process to burning the fuel, and the reason we burn fuels is because there is so much energy squeezed into each molecule. So you're somewhat subject to the same economic valley of death problem as above anyway. That is unless people are willing to pay the current equivalent of $5 or $6 per litre of petrol-ish liquid fuels. Can you imagine it? The squealing at $2 now is bad enough.
    • This is so cool. Get a dashcam that records audio and hopefully you'll catch it.  Maybe there's a brand or some kind of markings on the back ? Are the pics hand drawn? I love it so much.
    • Hahaha yep, point(s) taken. I just like seeing different things and an EV in an R32 is pretty different. I'm not on the EV band wagon, I'm waiting for synthetic fuels or hydrogen personally. 
    • I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.
×
×
  • Create New...