Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VERY high km's that is why almost guarantee a rebuild as soon as you pick it up add $5000 or more by the time you do turbo's as well it aint as cheap as it sounds. I was looking aorund japan yards the other day good low km 260rs's still going for over 2-2.5 million yen which is about $22,000-25.000 and add import tax,gst and compliance and there goes 35k. I have seen some superclean low km for around the 4 million mark so no prices haven't come down that much.

For that type of km I think that the owner would be selling it for a non profit. Its really hard to say, price in japan for that car would see it on road for that sort of money. If the turbos have not been changed then they will need to be soon. in saying that a low modified RB26 should last longer than 144k km, there is nothing like a test drive. i looked for a long time to find mine and import it. Its hard to find one that has the right km on it and sells for a price you can afford. If you do go ahead then get the auction report from the owner and have a good hard look over it to see what condition its in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting. My tuner said after the tune that my fuel economy would be better but it is the exact same from what I could tell even though my car was running rich before lol. How much do km do you reckon you get on a full tank of petrol on your commute?
    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
×
×
  • Create New...