Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks tao :)

just would like to say, my car is the car that the TR43 stats are from

and that day that power level of 242.8rwkw on 21psi was made on a 38-40deg late arvo here in adel!!!

so could make a more on alot cooler day...dare I say 245-250rwkw

and that was still with std timing...

so the tr43 are awesome, and changed the way I looked at rb20s

as whoever buys your 32 will never wana change the 20!!

clean 32 dude gl with sale...

also, K&N hi-flow panel filter purchased

Edited by dmr
  • 4 weeks later...

still lots of calls and time wasters.

also forgot to mention car has adjustable castor arms and GTR swaybars front and rear.

car has had a wheel alignment with new settings: 2.5deg front and rear camber, 5deg front castor, 1mm front and rear toe.

perfect for street, drift or track!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Sold and he coudn;t be mopre happy :P

thanks heaps for all the help dave.. was good to meet you too man....

was great to deal with and helped us out heaps...

will have to come over and say hello some time again :P

keep the cats away from each others hahahaha

pm me your email addy man and i will add you on facebook

Sold and he coudn;t be mopre happy :blink:

thanks heaps for all the help dave.. was good to meet you too man....

was great to deal with and helped us out heaps...

will have to come over and say hello some time again :)

keep the cats away from each others hahahaha

pm me your email addy man and i will add you on facebook

haha no probs mate.

any dramas just give me a call. i know that car like it was my own son!

take care buddy, all the best with it.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Donut tried them out, they were fine as long as the bolt or nut wasn’t very tight 
    • It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here. 
    • Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time. 
    • anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA   I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes'  but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?
    • I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.
×
×
  • Create New...