Jump to content
SAU Community

Wolf 3d V4 Installation Help!


Recommended Posts

i have a v4 with hand controller which comes with a loom (aka not a plug n play item, loom is modified for tx3 turbo) so i bought a 76 pin connector to replace my r32 rb20det ecu in my vl... but, the connector and the wolf 3d's plug for the loom is totally different! can anybody help me!?!?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wtf? its a hella lot more advanced than a PowerFC which ppl still go daft for :P

Just contact Wolf for a pinout, or they may even wire it up for you for a reasonable fee :)

http://www.wolfems.com/contact.html

:D Im talking about age, youre talking about performance?

'wtf?'

...V500 is the shit. If youre in VIC, talk to Robbie, hes a Wolf gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wtf? its a hella lot more advanced than a PowerFC which ppl still go daft for :)

hahaha i tune heaps of wolfs and yes the V500 is real nice unit but at the end of the day 99% of the ones that come in to me run like shit and i spend more time retuning other peoples f**k ups......

if your in vic im more than happy to have a look for you.

For all RB20's now i use r32 gtr PFC's... much nicer results.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow! cheers for all the replies! im in qld unfortunatly... this is what i bought thinking this is what i needed... http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/2223211.html thought this would plug straight up but obviously it doesnt only into the cars loom not in the ems... the wolf 3d i have has got the black plug for the wiring loom to plug into not suited for anything in particular if anyone knows what im on about?

and i havent had the chance to call any shops about it and yet havent found anything on google about finding any pinouts etc....

can anyone help me on this? and for any of u that can tune these would u have any base maps for an rb20det at all? need one so i can install the wolf 3d straight and go so i can take it to somebody to then tune it.... cheers guys p.s i will have photos uploaded soon to what the ems, connector, old ecu etc looks like

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you have is a standard Wolf 3D v4, and a 3D v4 wire-in loom. It's not even a 4+, which means you have to run waste spark ignition (4+ lets you run sequential ignition).

You need to remove the R32's loom, and replace it with the Wolf 3D loom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you get stuck send the unit to me:

Status Tuning

63 rodeo drive

south dandenong

3164

att Trent Hewitson

i will get the patch loom and load it up with a decent RB20 base image for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a link to the trusted Wolf Dealers/Tuners on the Wolf EMS website. There are a few in Queensland so find one closest to you.

Dealer/Tuner Link

Trent are you an authorized/trained dealer/tuner? Just asking as you name is not on the list.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
    • So, to run the 4g aerials to the booster, I had to get access to the rear bulkhead....bit of a mission. Hot tip, don't offer to help change the rear shocks for a mate with a v37.... Remove seat base, 2 clips that slide forward to release it the it lifts straight out Fold down rear seat (pull in from boot) The side bolster of the rear seat is not connected to the middle parts that fold. To remove unbolt at the bottom bolt then push it up off the top hook Then there is a plastic surround behind the seat back, 2 pop out clips, 2 bastard clips, some swearing at it is out Pop the rear seat latch surround off Remove door surround lower trim then side trim  Remove c pillar trim - 4 clips, pull inwards not forwards Remove metal brace - 5 bolts 1 nut Then you have got to the rear strut top...what a pain!
    • If you really want squish back, you can have it put on the piston (at least to some extent).
    • Impressive. He's very very smooth.
×
×
  • Create New...