Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Go the SSS dude, they're good on fuel, easy to drive and best of all they stick to the ground really well! Just make sure if you get one, get the N14, all the rest suck. Go a 94 mod if you can get one for 8k, doubt it though. You can do it up a bit too, and, if you're like a mate of mine, drop a SSS turbo bluebird motor into later on... Depends what your after, but I think that the SSS is a sweet ride for a first car, the only drawback is it's FWD (no burnouts) and gets a bit crowded with 3 in the back. (only my opinion though)

They have the same engines yes but the pulsar is detuned for Aus. The SR silvia isnt faster than the CA iv driven both but if you rebuilt the CA and remapped it with a higher rev limiter it'd go harder and atm its quite easy to get a CA, bcoz of the 15 yr rule.

The SR silvia has 103kw and the CA has 97 obviously quoted from the factory. The SSS i think has 93

If you want any info on silvia's look at the silviawa website under n?a performance or the silvia aus site. Both have great info.

Only advantage the pulsar has is 4 doors, but it is also fwd and prob weighs a lil more. Its also cheaper to mod an s13.

In the end find a car for the right price in good condition.

Originally posted by Greg

thought about a toyota cressida? they're nice cars but hard to find in manual

They only came in auto, if you are talking about the last shape. Although some people have been known to do manual conversions. My friend was gonna do a 2jz swap into the cressida along with manual. Turned out to be difficult, would have been a mad sleeper (in a major way!!)

My parents have a grande. Cheap insurance, expensive parts.

I rekon get an N14.

Although i got a swift gti for my first car ( 18months ago, with the same budget.)

mmm... firstly i'd reccomened a little sihtter to thrash the arse out of for 6-12 months.

but if 8g's (maybe take it to around 9-9.5) and you can get an R31 coupe (turbo) no worries in the world.

It'd be stock, but with Zorst (800), boost (80), ECU remap - ECCS engine (500-700) then you'll be laughing if you spend 1500 on it.

Plus they handle exceptionally well.

The IRS is decent for it's age

i've had two already and i'm only 20 ;)

my thoughts are that out of those cars, the silvia or N14 you get for 8k will be pretty much a heap of shit (I'm not 100% sure on the N14 though), and guaranteed to have been thrashed. The Lancers are gutless with shithouse build quality. The celicas are kinda comfy but hell boring.

I'd look at aussie delivered R31s (not the imports) in that price range. Get a 1989/90/91 model manual and you'd have a reasonably quick, efficient and comfy car, with some space, good handling and rwd. You could probably find the "silhouette" model for your money which means LSD, 15" mags and a sporty interior.

Theres even one guy selling an aussie GTS (not to be confused with the jap one) on here for $8500, those cars were built by Nissan's special vehicles division and had bilstein suspension, the LSD, a different body kit, 16" mags, sporty interior with a momo wheel, and an extra 20 or so KW over the basic one. They are acknowledged as one of the most refined and best handling sedans to come out of the 80's. They built two different series (the car had a bodywork facelift hence second one), the first is white on white 16" rims, the second one was red on white 16" wheels and a more aggressive kit (and some extra power). They only built 200 of each, but parts are common to the basic ones so thats no problem.

My one gets 8l/100kms if you are careful and 10-13l/100 if you cane it.

just an idea.

cheers,

floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, if it wasn't a GTR I'd say that killing an RB is a perfect opportunity to put in a proper engine. In your case, proximity to Brabus and AMG V12s would be a no brainer for any RWD Skyline engine death event. In my case, because my car is my daily, anything that I do wrong that means I have to do it again is both an absolute pain in the arse (simply having to do it again), and also a doubling of the pain associated with having the car off the road to work on it. I would class a botched head gasket install as not being "engine death causing". More a case of "f**k it's still leaking!"
    • Yeah, this is more stuff like transmission/clutch R&R. Intake manifold R&R. It's not super complicated, but each step matters and you need to be careful and patient. I have heard stories for example of people not figuring out the super coppermix twin plate orientation and getting it wrong on assembly. Removing a cylinder head and putting it back in once it's machined isn't that hard, following torque sequence to install some cams isn't that hard either, but somehow I've seen a lot go wrong between here and there. Scraping off all gasket material isn't that hard either, but I've seen shops ruin heads by using a roloc disk that was too aggressive.
    • There is some shops in Germany that have quite a bit of experience with JDM performance 4-wheelers. I think if it actually comes down to it I'd let one of them do the head gasket. Killing an RB26 is too expensive a risk just to save some money by doing it yourself.
    • There are certain tasks, like replacing head gaskets, where it is very much best to already know what you are doing, and if you are not already an expert, then the next best thing is to have an expert around to help it get done. Little annoying checks and steps that are easy to forget or not interpret the results of properly, etc etc. It is hard to convey that to someone as a lesson prior to taking on a job, because there can be a whole list of "if you see this then it means that", or "if this is what you find then you will need to do these other 4 steps first". All the little bits of knowledge around sealant choice (ie, sealant at all? or no sealant? sealant only in certain parts of the gasket? sealant for this type of gasket but not that type of gasket? etc etc) cleanliness checks and methods, surface straightness and finish checks and methods, etc etc, all combine to mean that people who have done many of the same type of job will struggle less to get a good result than someone who hasn't done it before. I've been around this stuff since forever. But I will still consult with my expert(s) before taking on the big stuff with higher risk profile.
    • Well if I end up having to do the head gasket I will certainly find the necessary tools and instructions before beginning... Let's hope it won't come around.   Definitely. Depends on the job but I think "if you want it done right, do it yourself" applies almost every time
×
×
  • Create New...