Jump to content
SAU Community

Oxygen Sensor ?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just wanted to run this by those more knowledgeable than myself.

I went up the coast for the weekend, and about 100k in, my check engine light came on for about five seconds then went off.

This happened a few more times through out the trip, sometimes only staying on for a second, sometimes longer.

Model: 98 S2 25t x four

Car seems to run fine. (although exhaust did smell a little rich on cold start.)

all fluid levels ok

plugs just replaced and new set of Splitfires installed.

Did the bit self diagnosis thing....(I think correctly)

turned ignition to on.

bridged the two points with wire for 2 seconds then removed.

Engine check light flashed 3 slow flashes, then 3 fast flashes.

SO, does this mean replace the oxygen sensor, and if so, is the EL falcon one ok for the S2 (replacing the EL connector with the stag one)

sorry if my discription is confusing,

cheers

Gerard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bosch EL is fine, just a bit fiddly with the connector, prob correct with diagnosis, worth replacing anyway as O2 sensors are only good for about 100k.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bosch EL is fine, just a bit fiddly with the connector, prob correct with diagnosis, worth replacing anyway as O2 sensors are only good for about 100k.

thanks chook.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

last time i did mine I found it easier to just splice the bare wires together for the EL O2 sensor to Nissan connector, instead of pulling the connector apart, but I was being lazy. Worth checking the price on a new NGK one, they list a part number for the R33, should be same, someone can confirm. see pic.

post-780-1217153301_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

last time i did mine I found it easier to just splice the bare wires together for the EL O2 sensor to Nissan connector, instead of pulling the connector apart, but I was being lazy. Worth checking the price on a new NGK one, they list a part number for the R33, should be same, someone can confirm. see pic.
It seems the NGK OZA395-E2 (Pulsar N14/N1, R33 Rb25DET) fits (plug as well? although the plug does not work for R34/neo). Its all in the O2 thread in the DIY section under "servicing" .
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used the N14 sensor. It is smaller in diameter but the thread and connector are the correct size,

Hi there, can you post cost of N14 O2 sensor & supplier please? Or pm if you prefer?

Cheers GW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there, can you post cost of N14 O2 sensor & supplier please? Or pm if you prefer?

Cheers GW

I have been delaying with Global EFI for my O2 sensors. They seem to know what they are doing, have good prices and stock available. 5531 0055. THey sent me a NGK OZA395-E2 the other day. Their part number was 351-0040. Please confirm with them that the plug and thread size is suitable for a RB25DET. Mine is for the RB26DETT. They may be the same. I will find out soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My post from the main O2 sensor thread:

Horray! Success!!

The O2 sensor socket arrived yesterday so last night I got stuck into the 260RS and switched over the O2 sensors. After much swearing and 3 HOURS, the job was done.

I used NTK sensors that had the following number on the case OZA395-E2 KBA16693. They were ordered from Global EFI with part number 351-0040. Once the job was done, I stuck on Consult (at 12:30 at night) and watched the the voltage of both sensors flick up and down like it should at cruise (before, 1 sensor was doing pretty much nothing). The car seemed to idle nicer (I have had idle problems since I bought it), but this could just be in my head. I'm waiting for my wife to tell me how it cold-started this morning.

I noticed the following things from this job:

-The stock sensors are Zirconia, not Titania. I can't confirm that the R33 GTR is identical to the 260RS, but I'm told this is the case.

-The leads on the new sensors were shorter than the old ones. This means I couldn't clip the lead onto all of the little guides, but at least they reached.

-The rear sensor has a rectangular plug that fitted perfectly. The front sensor had a square shaped plug that was different. It was an easy job to unpick the connectors from the new plug and re-use the old plug. This meant that I didn't need to join wires or anything nasty like that :P

-From what I've read in the past, I thought it was the rear sensor that had the square plug. Perhaps people are confused because the plugs that the O2 sensors go to are sat side by side. However, the front sensor goes to the rear plug and the rear sensor goes to the front plug!

So there you go... the Stagea 260RS (and possibly R33 GTR) take the same Zirconia sensors as the GTS-T and at $77 from GLobal EFI, you can't really go wrong :woot:

I'm very happy. Thanks heaps for all the advice guys.

Edited by BoostedBarge
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just grabbed an OZA395-E2 from Coventrys. Had a list price of $154 ex, but with a bit of "c'mon mate" how about showin a bit of love and givin me trade......$80 inc. Not a bad return for a simple question!

richard

Edited by rb
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

i know this is a old thread but i had one of these in my 2000 s2 stagea and it made alot of problems.. once on boost at about 4000rpm you would get like a fuel cut type feel.. it would loose all power for about 1-2seconds.

once i put the original one back in the car was fine.. just some more info

THnaks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shaft speed would be the same, however it's how long they hold it there for and repeated conditions. FWIW half way down the main straight at SMSP I'm bouncing off 4th with a 8600RPM limiter. That shaft would be spinning at 8600RPM for a few seconds before I need to smash the brakes, by T2 it's getting close to that speed again. Now a drag car/roll race car would see that shaft speed for a 1 to 2 secs then they would coast, hit the brakes and that's it.
    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
    • they might see those prop shaft speeds for 1 to 2 secs only 
    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
×
×
  • Create New...