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I am looking at running the 4WD Stagea on a 2WD dyno for tuning purposes.

I have done a search and come up with some information RE: the above topic, but need some more info.

The correct way seems to be to physically remove the front drive shaft from the driveline instead of removing any fuse i.e our 4WD Stageas run a similar arrangement to the R33 GTR.

What i am unable to find is;

a) Is there a correct procedure for removal of the driveshaft?

b) There are 4? bolts on the driveshaft to be removed. Where are these bolts located?

c) Is there any fluid that comes out during removal?

d) Is there a correct procedure for reinstallation afterwards?

e) While on the dyno is there anything you need to do or not do?

f) Anyone got any pics on the general area or FAST info?

can i just ask, is there a reason that you dont take your stagea to a 4wd dyno? ;what are the gains of dynoing with out, just to put it back?

sorry to hijack this thread.

marty

can i just ask, is there a reason that you dont take your stagea to a 4wd dyno? ;what are the gains of dynoing with out, just to put it back?

sorry to hijack this thread.

marty

My specialist LPG installer/tuner only has a 2WD dyno and the tuning must be done by him.

Yes, removing the front drive shaft is the best way, and it is very easy.

You need to unbolt the slave cylinder from the gearbox temporarily to remove the driveshaft (2x 14mm head bolts)

Then you need 2x 12mm open end spanners to get on to the driveshaft nut and bolts (they are at the front diff end, not the transfer case end). Undo each of the four nuts/bolts, and then push the driveshaft back into the transfer case about 5mm. Then the uni joint at the front will clear the flange and you can pull the driveshaft down and out. Put the slave cylinder back in and you are done

As the service manual likes to say, installation is the reverse of removal!

No fluid will leak, its all pretty straightforward, especially on a hoist.

Yes, removing the front drive shaft is the best way, and it is very easy.

You need to unbolt the slave cylinder from the gearbox temporarily to remove the driveshaft (2x 14mm head bolts)

Then you need 2x 12mm open end spanners to get on to the driveshaft nut and bolts (they are at the front diff end, not the transfer case end). Undo each of the four nuts/bolts, and then push the driveshaft back into the transfer case about 5mm. Then the uni joint at the front will clear the flange and you can pull the driveshaft down and out. Put the slave cylinder back in and you are done

As the service manual likes to say, installation is the reverse of removal!

No fluid will leak, its all pretty straightforward, especially on a hoist.

Thanks Duncan,

Is there a slave cylinder on the Auto Stageas' or does this apply only for the manual boxes?

remembering that most 4wd stageas have an open rear diff:

coming out of the main loom under the dash, slightly to the right of the steering column is a small loop (1 wire in it) with a plug in the middle

unplug this plug (has plastic tabs holding it together - can take some fiddling)

start the car, and pump the brake pedal quickly until the 4wd light starts flashing, if you dont pump it enough the 4wd light will come on solid if i recall.

flashing = 2wd

solid = air purge mode

plug it back in when you are done.

remembering that most 4wd stageas have an open rear diff:

coming out of the main loom under the dash, slightly to the right of the steering column is a small loop (1 wire in it) with a plug in the middle

unplug this plug (has plastic tabs holding it together - can take some fiddling)

start the car, and pump the brake pedal quickly until the 4wd light starts flashing, if you dont pump it enough the 4wd light will come on solid if i recall.

flashing = 2wd

solid = air purge mode

plug it back in when you are done.

Are you saying that this is a safe option to physically removing the front driveshaft?

How does it mechanically seperate the driveshaft from the front diff, if at all?

How is it different to the "remove 4WD fuse" myth.

it lets the computer know that you want it to be in 2wd as opposesd to just half arse disabling it . have done it on axle stands and fronts did not move at all signalling no residual pressure in the clutch system at all . also if you do this as well as removing the drive shaft the ABS will not have a spazz as can happen if just pulling the fuse .

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