Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bear in mind also if you get a R35 as a grey import

you will find it near impossible to insure before they are released in OZ

everything will be in japanese, all the voices will be in Japanese

The Sat Nav wont work

No warrenty

there is no news on when the grey imports will be allowed to be driven on Aust roads

Will be limited to 180km/h EVERYWHERE including the race track

current estimates that ive read on local cost of the GTR will be ~150k form your local nissan dealer

everything will be in english

will have a warrenty

uncapped speed limit

HOWEVER I have herd rumors that Aust will be getting a slightly detuned model, but that is just a rumor

Personally id keep the R34 atleast until the JDM R35s have approval to be driven on Aust roads

Edited by Jimmy Boy
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

bear in mind also if you get a R35 as a grey import

you will find it near impossible to insure before they are released in OZ

everything will be in japanese, all the voices will be in Japanese

The Sat Nav wont work

No warrenty

there is no news on when the grey imports will be allowed to be driven on Aust roads

Will be limited to 180km/h EVERYWHERE including the race track

current estimates that ive read on local cost of the GTR will be ~150k form your local nissan dealer

everything will be in english

will have a warrenty

uncapped speed limit

HOWEVER I have herd rumors that Aust will be getting a slightly detuned model, but that is just a rumor

Personally id keep the R34 atleast until the JDM R35s have approval to be driven on Aust roads

Hi

yes. i though about this before.

but it looks like i need wait to end of 2009 to get new GTR.

Maybe i will sell the V-spec2 Nur and still import one R35GTR.

cheers

How Much for the Nur o too dream Maybe its time to take that job offer in WA hahah f**k that.

R34 V-spec2 Nur = how many $$$$$$$

Do you have any pictures of it?

bear in mind also if you get a R35 as a grey import

you will find it near impossible to insure before they are released in OZ

everything will be in japanese, all the voices will be in Japanese

The Sat Nav wont work

No warrenty

there is no news on when the grey imports will be allowed to be driven on Aust roads

Will be limited to 180km/h EVERYWHERE including the race track

current estimates that ive read on local cost of the GTR will be ~150k form your local nissan dealer

everything will be in english

will have a warrenty

uncapped speed limit

HOWEVER I have herd rumors that Aust will be getting a slightly detuned model, but that is just a rumor

Personally id keep the R34 atleast until the JDM R35s have approval to be driven on Aust roads

You raised a good point there i would prob just wait for the release from Nissan Oz

bear in mind also if you get a R35 as a grey import

you will find it near impossible to insure before they are released in OZ

how is this any different to people insuring $120K R34 GTR's when they first got here? Shannon's wouldn't care

everything will be in japanese, all the voices will be in Japanese

The Sat Nav wont work

No warrenty

there is no news on when the grey imports will be allowed to be driven on Aust roads if they get it all cleared before the 18month window closes, which is likely, it will be fine

Will be limited to 180km/h EVERYWHERE including the race track numerous ECU "upgrade" options already available to get around this

current estimates that ive read on local cost of the GTR will be ~150k form your local nissan dealer

everything will be in english

will have a warrenty

uncapped speed limit wouldn't be so sure about that

HOWEVER I have herd rumors that Aust will be getting a slightly detuned model, but that is just a rumor

Personally id keep the R34 atleast until the JDM R35s have approval to be driven on Aust roads

well fuel considerations need to be made, but it's not like they're purposefully sending out lower power versions

  • 4 weeks later...
Hi

been busy for work.

the V-spec2 Nur will arrive 6/09.

i will take pictures for the car and post up.

cheers

Congrats!!!

Damn a while to wait but all be worth the wait!

Who you buying it from or through, just for interest?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
×
×
  • Create New...