Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4wd light is on.... fuse is fine....still in rwd.....making a buzzing noise in the rear sounds like the pump but its not the fuel pump if you pull the fuse from the inside the buzz noise stops :wave:

when you first turn the car on the light is not on, but after a few seconds it comes on.....

and the buzzing noise also goes away after a few seconds as well?

do you have to re set any thing?

just got it back from a full rebuild.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229963-gtr-promlem-stuck-in-rwd/
Share on other sites

you need to bleed the system possible the bleed nipple is at the top and back of the gear box you will need some tranny fluid to top up the resivor in the boot too.

There is a plug at the drivers kick panel and a plug you need to open to have the pump run so you can try and remove the air in the system.

some 1 post the link as i have the same problem

just bleed it with the white connector unplugged (its located in the drivers kick panel) the bleed nipple is located at the back of the transfer case. You need to open and close the nipple to force the oil through the bleeder. May take a few goes at it to get it fully cleared of air bubbles...make sure you have plenty of fluid in the tank located under the panel on the drivers side of the boot.

just bleed it with the white connector unplugged (its located in the drivers kick panel) the bleed nipple is located at the back of the transfer case. You need to open and close the nipple to force the oil through the bleeder. May take a few goes at it to get it fully cleared of air bubbles...make sure you have plenty of fluid in the tank located under the panel on the drivers side of the boot.

cheers

I have sorta same story but no nose or no light came on. But my GTR was getting a dyno tune and my tuner went to fare back and my front weel's wouldnt grab. And then i told him my car kicks out heaps when iam boosting. so it diffently not on so i need get it cheak out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...