Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

Im gonna be going my first trackday next weekend. Its going to be at Wakefield Park NSW.

And Im just curious to see what time I should be aiming for.

Im very goal driven (parden the pun) so I like something to aim for.

Car:

R32 GTS4 4door

Engine:

RB25DE

Relevant Mods:

Extractors

Front pipe

Cat back

HD Clutch

Polyurethane front bushes

HSD HR coilovers

Front and rear strut bar

GTR Bonnet (-10kg)

Fixed back bucket (-10kg)

Stripping:

Spare wheel

Passenger seat

Back seat

Random things

Wheels + Tyres:

R33 GTST's with Kumho V700's (most likely)

(perhaps) R32 GTR's with Toyo Ra1's

Experience:

No track experience but many hours mountain road driving.

Now I have seen Rb25DET powered cars are usually running just less than the 1:15 mark.

I'd like under 1:20. I think it’s a fairly low starting point. Could I aim a little lower?

Has anyone in 25DE run at Wakie? What kind of time did you run?

Any tips for being quick around Wakie? Any pointers for the track would be awesome!

Im assuming the 2nd (sharp) right hander after the pit straight is quite tough on the brakes. Should I be looking into higher temp pads/fluids?

Thanks in advance guys!

Any imput would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Cris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229980-what-time-could-i-run-at-wakefield/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd recommend QFM heavy duty pads, held up firm, never felt like fading. I think I did around 1:18 first time out, rough timing by passenger. The end straight corner can be hard on the brakes, my advice brake in a straight line at the end of the straight itself. I managed to spinout when I stuffed the end kink up at the end of the straight.

I'd recommend QFM heavy duty pads, held up firm, never felt like fading. I think I did around 1:18 first time out, rough timing by passenger. The end straight corner can be hard on the brakes, my advice brake in a straight line at the end of the straight itself. I managed to spinout when I stuffed the end kink up at the end of the straight.

lol.. I just watched some bloke spin at 160 odd km/h..

Wise words..

What engine/mods?

Cheers

If this is your first trackday your goals should be to have fun, don't try and be Lewis Hamilton because you aren't, smooth equals fast and most importantly get the car home in 1 piece without trying to be a hero.

Its a fair point you guys rais..

but money is hard for me to come buy.. and I dont know when Ill get this opportunity again.. This was given as a present..

Ill enjoy the begining.. of the day.. but Id like to put my steering skills to the test..

Im just curious..

Ill try under 1:20.. and see..

More input on the track would be great..

Ill post after the track day the time..

Top up your engine oil slightly also :wave:

Main thing is have fun!

Do a warm up lap, do a couple of fast laps, then a cool down lap, and when you come into pits, dont put your handbrake on.

Dont push yourself, as Ben said, smooth can be faster.

Enjoy.

i seen a rx2 roll it on 2nd corner other week!!!

1.19-1.20ill be fine like they said warm up laps couple of fast ones then a cool down, you want your car to last!!!!

meh.. if engine blows.. It's just a bigger insentive to finish my other engine :(

lol.. Im quite worried about that corner..

My mate may be comming in his Mazda Capella (Piston Rx2).. and I think Ill be telling him about that too

You just have to use your brains. If it looks like you're not going to make the corner, don't just turn the wheel and pray cos that will never work. Go STRAIGHT into the sand trap and wait to be towed out.

I had a lose at 180km/h at the end of the OP straight and while spinning around I managed to get the car to spear into the sand trap straight backwards. There is no doubt in my mind that had I hit it sideways I would have rolled it many times but all that happened was I cracked my rear rotors cos they were hot and I was sitting still.

STRAIGHT into sand traps! Got it?

if u get talking 2 sum1 that has been round the track b4 and similar power follow them round the track close but not 2 close and watch the lines they take. my mate has said 2 be carefull of the right hander coming of the top as it goes off camber but just have fun out there. r u gona have a go at the supersprint of hillclimb in august.

The main thing is to have fun and enjoy yourself :ermm: you will have the best time out there

Take the morning to get used to the track and your braking points, Don't go out hell for leather..

By the afternoon you will be more confident and usually your times lessen with that confidence :down: Try and chase a faster car as that always help me go that little bit quicker.

Watch you're temps in the car like the other guys are saying and have cool down laps on the track or a lap of the pits after you come off. If your using semi slicks they will tell you usually when they have had enough as don't grip so well after 5 laps or so ( Yokohama A048's do this to me after 5 laps) and become greasy that the best time to cool it down a little..

Best of Luck I'm sure you will have a ball! :P

Just make sure you make it around the kink. If you don't there's nothing to slow you down before you hit the tyres. :down:

Don't worry about turn 2, there's kitty litter to pull you up if you go in too hot, and seriously, you have about an extra 20m of track beyond the point where you should be getting off the brakes and turning in which is heaps unless you are sliding on someone elses oil.

Advice on the track itself;

There are 2 lines through the kink, the wide line where you stay about 4m off the apex and brake in a curve to effectively take turn 2 wider and the straight line where you straight line from the apex of the kink to your turn in point at 2 and it makes turn 2 a bit tighter as a result.

Take turn 3 as fast as you can, don't worry so much about your line into turn 4. If you are back somewhere around the middle of the track when you turn in to 4 you are doing ok. If you can make it all the way over to the left again before turning into 4 then you are losing a heap of time through 3.

5 is just a regular old corner

6 i turn in late and hug the ripple strip down the slippery dip before braking in a curve into the fish hook. You want the car parallel to the right hand side of the track at the point you turn in to the fish hook. There's an access track that comes off the side of the track at that point. turn in as soon as you pass it and clip the ripple strip on the apex.

If your car is a typical skyline it will probably drift to the out side here if you are going quick so just ease onto the throttle and keep it on the track and maintain the turn. You want to come out of the fish hook on the left half of the track to give yourself enough time to get right over to the left before turn 9. Regular apex but cut it as much as you're game to do. Lots of time to make up with that one as you can carry all that extra speed down the back straight.

And turn 10. brake late and when you think you're about to drive off the end of the track turn in. You want to clip the ripple strip on the inside as you are coming onto the straight. It's probably less important in a 4wd NA but you really need to keep the car pretty straight on the exit of 10 or you just turn the tyres and lose time in a rwd. It's a slow in fast out line and great in the wet too. i've driven away from evos in a 160kw silvia with that one in the wet :P

Thats my rubbish advice. It's probably useless until you have driven the track, but if you read it afterwards something may click.

Hope some of it makes sense.

My good advice. know your limits, keep an eye on temps, and if the car starts to act up pull in cos it'll only get worse. drive your car home.

Driving on the track is not like driving on the street. When you start you'll be stunned about how wide the track is, by the end of the day you should hopefully only be seeing that one car width where you should be.

raps has good advice for learning lines quicker, just don't assume that the guy doing 16's has the right lines because he's trying to copy a guy doing 12's who's copying a guy doing 10's etc etc

Enjoy!

Just make sure you make it around the kink. If you don't there's nothing to slow you down before you hit the tyres. :P

Don't worry about turn 2, there's kitty litter to pull you up if you go in too hot, and seriously, you have about an extra 20m of track beyond the point where you should be getting off the brakes and turning in which is heaps unless you are sliding on someone elses oil.

Advice on the track itself;

There are 2 lines through the kink, the wide line where you stay about 4m off the apex and brake in a curve to effectively take turn 2 wider and the straight line where you straight line from the apex of the kink to your turn in point at 2 and it makes turn 2 a bit tighter as a result.

Take turn 3 as fast as you can, don't worry so much about your line into turn 4. If you are back somewhere around the middle of the track when you turn in to 4 you are doing ok. If you can make it all the way over to the left again before turning into 4 then you are losing a heap of time through 3.

5 is just a regular old corner

6 i turn in late and hug the ripple strip down the slippery dip before braking in a curve into the fish hook. You want the car parallel to the right hand side of the track at the point you turn in to the fish hook. There's an access track that comes off the side of the track at that point. turn in as soon as you pass it and clip the ripple strip on the apex.

If your car is a typical skyline it will probably drift to the out side here if you are going quick so just ease onto the throttle and keep it on the track and maintain the turn. You want to come out of the fish hook on the left half of the track to give yourself enough time to get right over to the left before turn 9. Regular apex but cut it as much as you're game to do. Lots of time to make up with that one as you can carry all that extra speed down the back straight.

And turn 10. brake late and when you think you're about to drive off the end of the track turn in. You want to clip the ripple strip on the inside as you are coming onto the straight. It's probably less important in a 4wd NA but you really need to keep the car pretty straight on the exit of 10 or you just turn the tyres and lose time in a rwd. It's a slow in fast out line and great in the wet too. i've driven away from evos in a 160kw silvia with that one in the wet :ermm:

Thats my rubbish advice. It's probably useless until you have driven the track, but if you read it afterwards something may click.

Hope some of it makes sense.

My good advice. know your limits, keep an eye on temps, and if the car starts to act up pull in cos it'll only get worse. drive your car home.

Driving on the track is not like driving on the street. When you start you'll be stunned about how wide the track is, by the end of the day you should hopefully only be seeing that one car width where you should be.

raps has good advice for learning lines quicker, just don't assume that the guy doing 16's has the right lines because he's trying to copy a guy doing 12's who's copying a guy doing 10's etc etc

Enjoy!

I havnt driven Wakefield but i already feel I could, that was an excellent summation and should serve as an example to the more experienced trackies on the forum when noobs ask for advice.

Great post mate. :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
    • I recently purchased a 2018 Infiniti Q60, which has an SD card navigation map. I can see my system has options for real time traffic updates etc, and am wondering if there is something I can purchase to get this working? I can see there are at least updated maps for USA and Canada, but nothing for Australia. Surely Infiniti took changing road systems and city expansions into account when they decided to use an inbuilt navigation over Android Auto/Apple Car Play, or are we doomed to drive on streets that don't exist in the navigation system if you drive to a new area?
    • Luckily I didn't put in etch primer as I just found out it's not compatible with my body filler lol. Also just need to sand the panel anywhere between 150-400 grit so I'm in the clear there. It does say to not apply to soft old paint, I assume that means paint that is flaking, peeling,etc
×
×
  • Create New...