Jump to content
SAU Community

Sandown - Sun 31 Aug - Sau Vic Club C/ship - Rnd 6


Recommended Posts

Speak to Brisby about your car, he's the 32gtst king. He makes good power which is pretty responsive, ask what setup he has. Also i'd be focusing on suspension setup. Unless your brakes were fading then dont worry too much about them just yet. Tyres are super important, but the more grip you have in tyres the higher spec the rest of your setup needs to be.

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i did a 1.42 on the one dry lap... very very slow but thats cause i didnt wanna right my car off i was just cruising upto corners and still getting compresion lock ups sideways into the s bend at the back of the track i lost it twice round there but no damage done.

First things first, maybe think about going to one of Kevs driver dynamics days and learning about stopping the car. A little GTSt with that sort of power and no ABS can be tricky to stop, especially if you dont have good tyres on thing. So get the braking and gearchange technique sorted, which the lessons cost money. Once you have some more confidence and you understand what the car under you is doing, or more importantly not doing then you will also havea a far better idea of what you think you need to mod to get it to your lighting.

What turbo and suspension do you have at the moment?

yep i hear ya cheers.

my suspension and everything is stock the breaks were fading pretty bad once i heated em up on the dry lap i got one decent lap out of em then they were bad i couldnt hold any speed up to a corner at all really.

i was using my clutch to slow the car but that didnt work too good either. compression lock ups into corners are scary sometimes. :)

i was facing the wrong way once lol. but i tell you what it was fun once i got the hang of it kicking out so hard.

my turbo is a gt30 450 hp im making around 240kw on pump fuel. it will make 260 comfortably too but i dont wanna push the limits.

just not sure how boost comes on in the other guys cars with the rb20

mine is probably the same maybe it is just my setup breaks tyres ect. brisby has a td-06 not sure when he hits boost?

ive just been thinking that even if your making less power but it comes on earlier you will carry way more speed through the rev range. and come on boost better out of corners.

Once you do a bit more racing you'll start to realise how insignificant power can be.

Probably the worst type of car to learn in is something like yours with lots of power but not much else. You aren't going to get much out of it if you can't rely on your brakes/tyres/suspension. You would probably find that you will cut quicker lap times with your current setup pulling some boost out of it and going back to 180-200rwkw. You won't cook the brakes as bad and will have smoother power delivery out of corners.

While the big turbos can be frustrating when trying to pull out of corners you can learn to compensate by getting onto the gas earlier in the corner allowing for the spool up time.

You'll work all this stuff out yourself soon enough though

Ok finally had a chance to convert the incar vids I took from this track day...

First up is my 'inexpensive' learning lesson about standing water + worn semis + boost on the exit of the sweeper....

Spin

Second is my quickest lap...following Zilla...

Lap 2

and lastly is the lap right after the one above pushing a little too hard around turn 1, 2 and 3...

Lap 3

Just a normal tape camcorder....I made up a mount that bolts to the baby seat mount points and away I go. The biggest problem is the lack of height you have between the rear windscreen and the parcel shelf.

I'm sure you've seen it but BBGTR uses the Go Pro (?) cam and he posted video a while ago.....

ant.... i love the deep breath after the car came to a stop just after the spin.

that same point is where i span from down gearing into second and getting compression lock up.

i reckon there could have been oil even in that section of the track???

Nice vids, And some nice flames coming from the buzz.

:O

I didn't know it popped them out like that and I didn't think it was doing them there, good old factory computer running rich ;)

Nice vids. You seemed so relaxed during the spin! Just a bit of opposite lock..... bit more.... bit more...... oh oh...

Well I did consider giving the team america secret signal but figured my hands were needed at the steering wheel ;)

ant.... i love the deep breath after the car came to a stop just after the spin.

that same point is where i span from down gearing into second and getting compression lock up.

i reckon there could have been oil even in that section of the track???

Hahaha yeah and if you listen carefully I might just have sworn as my car hit the grass :(

As for the oil...I don't think so....if you look in the vid there is a bit of standing water on the exit and my car hit its power band just as I went over it causing it to step out.

I didn't know it popped them out like that and I didn't think it was doing them there, good old factory computer running rich

Lol suuuure you didn't :P Out of interest what sort of power is your car running....going by the speed down Sandowns straights and the 1/4 mile time in your sig I'd guess around the 320-350kw mark?

Mine is making about 255rwkw. I have some sort of issue at Sandown where the power cuts out in 4th gear around 6500rpm, so I have to shift early into 5th.

It is not a speed cut because I had that removed, it doesn't backfire like when the speed cut used to hit, instead its like the power is just cut out, if I lift off and then put the foot down again I still don't have anything. I don't know if it is some sort of boost cut? Either way it means I have to shift up into 5th and then it is fine.

Funny that because mines making that (racepace dyno) and you were pulling away from me on the straights *scratches head*

...lol maybe check your boost control :(

As for the power cut....sounds like either coils or plugs.....there is plenty of info on this on the site about the symptoms you describe so do a search

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...