Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any engine will knock, whether it is PFC or stock ECU........ i would worry too much about it, a friend's R34 did that as well and he never mention anything about being worried about it, but if in doubt get it checked out by your mechanic/dyno dude :rolleyes:

any engine will knock, whether it is PFC or stock ECU........ i would worry too much about it, a friend's R34 did that as well and he never mention anything about being worried about it, but if in doubt get it checked out by your mechanic/dyno dude :)

lol no, only a PFC will trigger the CEL for engine knock, the stock ECU will not display the CEL if there is any knock detected....would be great if it did :rolleyes:

If it was a brief flash 9/10 it's the O2 sensor, if it goes on an remains on, most likely coil packs..run the diagnostic to be sure.

Paper clips at the ready!!!!!

As the document says, turns the ignition to "on" short the two terminals indicated on the consult plug (clipped covertly on the underside of the dash near where your right knee lives), count the flashes, look up the code

diagnostic.doc

Thanks Dan lol

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all just to clarify... This happened to me today. The engine light turned on and stayed on after 10 minutes of driving. I didn't feel any change in the engine etc. car felt as usual no hesitation, shakes or missfires.

I pulled over waited a few seconds and restarted - engine light was off and never came back on.

I guess i'll have to drive the car more and observe if the issue comes back.

My car is an r34 non-turbo auto btw.

What is the consensus on this? Bung sensor or coilpacks about to give out or ecu glitch (if that even happens)???

Hi all just to clarify... This happened to me today. The engine light turned on and stayed on after 10 minutes of driving. I didn't feel any change in the engine etc. car felt as usual no hesitation, shakes or missfires.

I pulled over waited a few seconds and restarted - engine light was off and never came back on.

I guess i'll have to drive the car more and observe if the issue comes back.

My car is an r34 non-turbo auto btw.

What is the consensus on this? Bung sensor or coilpacks about to give out or ecu glitch (if that even happens)???

Definately coil packs, fitted Splitfires and iridium plugs to mine today. My engine light had been on for a week and a half but like yours had not yet shown any signs of hesitation or missfiring yet. Just ran the engine, no engine light on and appears to be running much smoother and cleaner than before.

Splitfire coilpacks, part# SF-DIS-008, Brought them from CRD in NSW for $510 delivered, awsome service as they arrived a day and a half after payment.

NGK Iridium spark plugs BKR5EIX-11 $90

Also have NA R34 Good luck, Nath.

post-26384-1220085513_thumb.jpg

this happened to me, engine light came on and it dropped a cylinder, car would shake quite a bit, so i unplugged the coilpack plug, replug back in and the shaking went away.

pin pointed it down to the one SOB coilpack so i replaced that.

hopefully its fixed now as i only did it 2 days ago but so far so good, the light would come on intermittently, sometimes it would last a week without issues or maybe a day... but then in future if more packs let go, its time for splitfires.

  • 2 weeks later...

My engine light came and and I got a service they hooked up the Nissan computer but they couldn't find the problem. I rang Power Road car sales where i bought my R34 Gt from and they identified the problem by just me explaining it over the phone.

I just got a new coil pack installed by them today, costing 240, (130 for the coil pack form Nissan) They also claim to have a machine that tells them which coil pack is playing up.The car runs smooth now, but my engine light is still on. I was told that the computer needs resetting, but I would have thought that the light would switch its self off once the problem is solved.

Does any one know how to reset computer or do i need to take the car to a specialist?

^ dc the battery, step on brake a few times to compeltely drain the power.. wait a few mins, connect battery back up & thats it.

but after u change the coilpack, u turn it off and then turn it back on and the engine light should go away.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
×
×
  • Create New...