Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guys,

I dont have a skyline, but i was hoping that someone on here might be able to help me. The thermofan on my 300ZX TT seems to have a life of its own, sometimes it runs and sometimes it wont. Today it wasnt running but after i turned off the car and restarted the thermofan ran non-stop the whole time i was driving it and it continues to run on a cold engine when i turn the key.

Im guessing that its the relays as they were installed. I was hoping that some kind person could check these over for me. There are two relays, one white and one black.

White:

30 - Black 30

85 - Thermo temp sender

86 - Merges with Black 85 to Thermo switch

87a - Thermofan +

(Thermofan - is grounded)

Black:

30 - White 30

85 - Merges with White 86 to thermo switch

86 - Ground

87 - Battery +

diagram:

n1131241482_88632_7008.jpg

Does this seem right? Any help much appreciated. It is a Spal 16" thermofan.

-Martin

If its not this ill turn my attention to the switch :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230505-thermofan-relay-help-please/
Share on other sites

Not sure why you have 2 relays. Ordinarily, it would be set up with:

Pin 30 = +12V (battery)

Pin 87 = +12V -> fan -> earth

Then depending how the thermo switch works:

Pin 85 = thermo switch -> earth

Pin 86 = +12V (IGN)

or

Pin 85 = +12V <- thermo switch

Pin 86 = earth

first of all without a pic of the diagram on the side of the relay, all we can go off is what the pinout of a relay should be. and also from the diagram the only way it will work is if the thermostat (sender) is a Normally Closed switch, switching ground.

- the way its wired there, if the switch is on (purple wire fed +ve), and the thermostat is below its switching temp, the fan wont run, untill it reaches its switching temp.

- if the switch is turned off (purple wire not fed anything) but the thermostat is at switching temp, it wont run. must be so you can turn the fan off anytime you want.

- you need the switch on and the thermostat at its switching temp for the fan to run. but it should switch off below a certain temp.

so... from what you have described is happening i would say that your thermostat (sender) has shit itself and isn't and sending the ground signal to the white relay once your water temp goes below its set temp.

you need 2 relays so you can use a manual switch to "override" the thermo fan from running it you want. it does seem like a wierd way to wire it but looks like its the way it has to be with the temp sender your using.

Not sure about that, if you use one relay and then take the thermofan power from the top one [black one] at 87a and then install a switch in the power lead to the fan, you only need the one relay.

Its exactly the same for driving lights, on/off switch and another live switch to the low/high beam.

I run a pair of thermo fans that I can switch on in two ways.

1/ Temperature controlled - automatic

2/ Manually switched.

The temperature controlled automatic method does what it should and switches the fans on or off as it sees fit and the manual switch turns the fans on regardless of what the temp is.

It runs one relay for the lot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...