Jump to content
SAU Community

Purchacing A Skyline

nicksrex
 Share

Recommended Posts

skylineboy84 Apprentice

skylineboy84

Posted
Posted

if its got less than 100,000k on the clock have a look at the moto to see if its got a 100,000k service sticker, if its got the sticker pretty much means the clock been put back, for alot of r32,r33 gtst this is the case, i went to one import shop and they had 4 r33 that were like this, one had a 190,000k service sticker on it and the clock said 85,000. :cool:

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
Hey, im looking at purchacing a skyline and wanted to know what are some common problems to look out for and whats the best workshop to get a car looked at before i buy it? Thanks for your help

Hi Nick,

Certain idiosyncrasies exist (besides being vigilant for rust, any damage that hasn't been repaired properly, service history etc) whether it's an R32, R33 or R34. Which one?

To better answer your 2nd Q, just wondering what city u r in? Your Profile says 'Location Unknown'.

Regards, T

nicksrex Rookie

nicksrex

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Nick,

Certain idiosyncrasies exist (besides being vigilant for rust, any damage that hasn't been repaired properly, service history etc) whether it's an R32, R33 or R34. Which one?

To better answer your 2nd Q, just wondering what city u r in? Your Profile says 'Location Unknown'.

Regards, T

im looking at a r33 gtst and im in perth.

the post previously said about a sticker saying th kms just wondering where that sticker is usually put? its not the service sticker is it?

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

Hi Nick,

I believe that Quinny is cautioning you about a sticker on the block or thereabouts that would confirm that the timing belt has been changed &/or other things.

The previous owner if in Oz should have the Kms travelled according to the odometer at the rego inspection certicate to act as a progress marker.

Wear and tear on the bolsters and carpet + sun damage to the steering wheel are also markers.

If the car has been in Japan all this time, extra care has to be taken looking for rust in the undercarriage as well as hinges, body panels, around window seals because Japan has acid rain in Honshu as well as parts of Kyushu Islands combined with salt. But even in Perth, if you live anywhere near the sea, you'll get salt from the Fremantle Dr. Rust on Skylines ain't as bad as Alfas before the 90s but your investment is worth checking over. Look at the owner's body language as you ask him if he'll let you put the car up on a hoist.

On inspection, take >1 mechanic with you (to go through your pre-planned checklist) as you check for rust, oil leaks/seepage, sludge under/around the oil-fill opening, previous damage & bad repairs, air cond, electric windows, heater, windscreen chips, unevenly worn tyres, lights. If you detect damage, ask for his insurance company on that car so that a check can be done (on claims) with his permission. Also check for scratched paint on the corners of panel bolts around the engine.

Personally, I can't think of many things to specifically look for on a R33 GTsT, but hey, you'll pick up 100s of messages through the seat and steering wheel after you then start the engine.

Happy Searching!

T

OzCarImports Collaborator

OzCarImports

Posted
Posted (edited)
if its got less than 100,000k on the clock have a look at the moto to see if its got a 100,000k service sticker, if its got the sticker pretty much means the clock been put back, for alot of r32,r33 gtst this is the case, i went to one import shop and they had 4 r33 that were like this, one had a 190,000k service sticker on it and the clock said 85,000. :cool:

JEVIC!

Check this link out, be better if more imports had this inspection, save alot of head aches for people before they lay there hard earned cash out on the table.

I have all my car inspected before they leave Japan.

http://www.jevic.co.jp/jevic_english/inspe...ces/index4.html

Edited by OzCarImports
skylineboy84 Apprentice

skylineboy84

Posted
Posted

Yup thats it when the timing belt was change

im looking at a r33 gtst and im in perth.

the post previously said about a sticker saying th kms just wondering where that sticker is usually put? its not the service sticker is it?

post-47818-1217657766_thumb.jpg

G0DZLR Mentor

G0DZLR

Posted
Posted
Yup thats it when the timing belt was change

will the sticker have something written on it to indicate its been changed? or have to have something to be marked off? cos mine has it, but my odo is only at 88xxxkms

nicksrex Rookie

nicksrex

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yup! could it be my belts were changed before the 100,000k service, or has my odo been wound back...

I was under the impression the sticker was there to remind you to get the timing belt changed at 100k and then when its done its ither replaced with a new sticker or they write on the existing sticker what kms the belt was changed. Wheres the best workshop to get the car checked? And roughly how much is it?

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
yup! could it be my belts were changed before the 100,000k service, or has my odo been wound back...

Just as Quinny above has said, it looks as if the odo has been wound back if

i) the sticker says that the timing belt has been changed already and

ii) you're the 1st Australian owner or

But then again, perhaps the oil pump's been changed!

It's recommended to change the timing belt if the oil pump has had it.

But if you're the >2nd Aussie owner, it may be that the previous owner changed it anyway through caution or the oil pump's been changed

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted

The 100,000.00 service would be a KM or date service correct? Like most cars its whatever comes first. I know my GFs civic has had one of its major services (i think 50k service) and its barely cracked 30. Just the way it goes if you wanna keep your warranty

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...