Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you kidding?

Its not like you even had to look too far.. there are currently 3 or 4 exhaust threads.. all 4 of them with the answer..

2.5 inch is good for responce

3 inch is good for top end

What to buy in terms of product.. anything will do - just not a generic "one items for all cars" product.

Where to get? Forums is good place for cheap brand name products.. Ebay for BRAND name items (not supershit items). Internet web sites.. but these can be grossley over priced.

Cat back wont give you too much of anything though.. just a little more poke.. not much.. and a completely different sound.

Buying second hand will always be cheaper.

Dont buy supercheap products.. it will sound like a fat man fatring in a can

And next time search..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230601-r34-exhaust/#findComment-4052193
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I've seen this on eBay...though I haven't been able to find much on Rapid Auto Parts in a google search.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-...1742.m153.l1262

They "appear" to be a quality built cat back, I have no idea about what the mufflers on them are like though. If anyone here has had experience with them I'd be keen to hear it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230601-r34-exhaust/#findComment-4097918
Share on other sites

As above, its only really going to change the note. You need a full system to really change drivability. Remember your na relies on a certain amount of backpressure (unlike turbo), and can only flow as fast as the smallest restriction cat forward. There might be slight improvements from the scavanging effect caused by the pressure drop over the two sized pipes (cat providing the baffle/smooth transition of exhaust flow) but a full tuned system always has a much better effectiveness/efficiency at scavaging or pulling power from the motor. Save a little more and get a full system, you'll also save on labour in the long run.

Anyway you'll have to do a bit of searching to find what your looking for because the improvements are so small and hard to judge on a n/a catback system

On an N/a skyline i wouldnt go above full 2.5" and that will support all future mods albeit turbo coversion. Might find mid range drop off and top end increase without (torque move up rpm) them though. Only bother if you intend to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230601-r34-exhaust/#findComment-4098052
Share on other sites

^ yeah i was going to get 2.5" as the stock system is too quiet but i realised its a waste of $$ as im going turbo early next year so i might just stick with this for now.

2.5" wont gain much over stock...

might just put a cannon on for sme sound lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230601-r34-exhaust/#findComment-4106408
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...