Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys this is my first post so go easy.

Anyway i have recently bough an R33 with a GT3040 (vg30 rear .68 housing, in stock comp cover) and find it way too laggy....starts to just come on at around 4200rpm and gets going around 5000rpm. Its pretty stock only having a 3" Blitz exhaust (straight through) and Tomei 255l pump.

At first i thought the extra lagg was good because when my g/f drives it its very tame but now i really am looking for more power especially down low!!!!! I know i need to get a power fc, injecters and front mount b4 i wind up the boost but i dont see the point if its just going to make more power up top and still have nothing down low. Top end is not bad now but revving to 7k every time i want to over take isnt the best.

I'm very tempted to put a stock turbo on it and just drive it.

Any thoughts would be great.

Cheers james!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys this is my first post so go easy.

Anyway i have recently bough an R33 with a GT3040 (vg30 rear .68 housing, in stock comp cover) and find it way too laggy....starts to just come on at around 4200rpm and gets going around 5000rpm. Its pretty stock only having a 3" Blitz exhaust (straight through) and Tomei 255l pump.

At first i thought the extra lagg was good because when my g/f drives it its very tame but now i really am looking for more power especially down low!!!!! I know i need to get a power fc, injecters and front mount b4 i wind up the boost but i dont see the point if its just going to make more power up top and still have nothing down low. Top end is not bad now but revving to 7k every time i want to over take isnt the best.

I'm very tempted to put a stock turbo on it and just drive it.

Any thoughts would be great.

Cheers james!

I have a 3040 on my r33 has .82 rear starts spooling at 3500 full boost (18psi)at 4000.

are you using the stock exhaust manifold

what size dump pipe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4053070
Share on other sites

Yes its a stock manifold and yes its a genuine garret built by ATS in Melbourne. I would have thought with the 0.62 it would spool up a lot quicker especially under load in 3rd. I would love it to start at 3000rpm!

Will a tune (with power fc) help this or do my problems lie somewhere else?

Also it seems to be running very low boost (looks around 4psi), but i will confirm with an aftermarket guage in the next few days. Am i able to use an adjustable boost controller and wind it up to say 8 or 9 psi with stock computer???

Once again thanks in advance.

James

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4053416
Share on other sites

change the actuator on the turbo to an ajustable one. Thats what i had on it a while ago before i restored it to standard.

When i had it setup i was making fullboost by 3,800.

Get an ajustable actuator (hks)

ecu (will bring boost on earlier)

front mount cooler

Then youl be good as gold

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4053510
Share on other sites

Check you boost actuator; if it's soft or lazy it will be opening the internal gate too early, causing turbo to be laggy and not boost up properly.

I would personally take it to a mechanic that has a dyno and knows how to diagnose these issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4053511
Share on other sites

i would change the exhaust manifold, get a power fc and adjustable exhaust cam gear

Hell no. Not worth the $'s with that turbo/setup. I made 275rwkw with the standard manifold and great response using a turbo very similar to this and a GTRS.

I have seen others make over 330rwkw using the std manifold.

As others have stated:

- ECU + tune

- Good actuator

- turbo back exhaust

- fmic

then to optimize the set-up

- Injectors

- Boost controller

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4053648
Share on other sites

its not about making power. you want to make it came onboost faster. when my car was running a apexi rx6b turbo i change the stock manifold for a stainless low mount it started coming onboost 1000 rpm faster. didnt give it a bigger number on the dyno but made it faster.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4053928
Share on other sites

1000rpm is unlikely but this isnt an apexi RX6 were talking about, its a cropped vg30 rear

nothing like an RX6 housing

it would be silly using an rx6 on stock manifold, it would be like trying a t67 or t88

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4053953
Share on other sites

1000rpm just from a manifold on what isnt a big turbo in most terms...

Interesting...

Agreed :D

Also....fitting a hiflowed std turbo to a high mount manifold is a BIG waste of money. This turbo should be making full boost by 3800-4000rpm max.; if it's not, there is something wrong with the setup/tune. Fitting a top mount manifold will not fix the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4058077
Share on other sites

Ok bit of an update.

I fit a boost gauge today and its boosting to only around 4psi. I fit a manual boost controller and nothing happend....... I went back and had a look and the wastegate flap thingy was set so that it was open all of the time!!!! Obviously the previous owner had done this after he pulled the supporting mods off to keep it safe!

Well i angled the actuator so that it was shut and went for a quick spin and geeeeee what a difference. Boost starts at 3000rpm and keeps going until around 8psi. I could actually year the turbo this time. Anyway i only did this once or twice and cruised home so not to do any damage and will put it back the way i was.

I'm just happy to find out that it was something very simple and cant wait to get it tuned once a get an ECU.

Thanks

James

PS: Does the standard ecu warn if the injecters are at 100% duty and i'm leaning out?

Does anyone think its safe to run maybe 5-6psi? I want to put it back so the wastegate is shut and i can get some reasonable low down torque but not want it to boost any higher then say 6psi.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230687-r33-with-gt3040/#findComment-4058122
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...