Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently I've noticed a ticking noise sorta coming from the back left part of the engine bay. Someone told me they think its probebly noisey injectors, because when you rev it the ticking goes faster with the revving...

Would this be affecting performance, causing damage or anything else ? Should I get it fixed straight away, if so how much would it cost, roughly?

Could it possibly be something else ?

Also, how do you check to tell if the engine is running lean or rich, or is knocking and that the afm and o2 sensors are working right?

Thanks for any help !

Do search.

RB's make a lot of injector noise. Use the afore mentioned screw driver on your ear if a) you think one is nosier then the rest and b) its only just occurred.

If the noise goes away temporarily when the revs drop, after racing it, then its inj's.

Harm? If one partially drops out when your WOT @ redline, sure you could destroy a motor worst case.

Thanks for the input so far guys,

The noise is pretty consistent whether engine is cold or at temp. whether its just been raced, driven gently or just turned on.

Ive been quoted $455 to clean and service the injectors, seem fair ?

The noise is pretty consistent whether engine is cold or at temp. whether its just been raced, driven gently or just turned on.

Ive been quoted $455 to clean and service the injectors, seem fair ?

Hey,

"Raced"as in "free revved while at standstill in neutral" :) When the revs are dropping, from a "free rev" the ECU cuts the injector signal for a moment, you should be able to hear the difference.

I don't think Iv pad more then $100 to have 6 injectors cleaned and flow tested; that price must include removal / reinstall...? ouch

Edited by GeeTR
I don't think Iv pad more then $100 to have 6 injectors cleaned and flow tested; that price must include removal / reinstall...? ouch

geetr, ill check for the absence of ticking after a free rev. and if thats the case, the noise is definetly injectors.... good diagnostics.

Thanks everyone for the continued input, my babies getting a major service from a trader on here, so ill look elsewhere for a fairer priced injector cleaning.

I was told by the people who gave me a quote that they would be sonicated, which im almost certain means they would remove them. But how could they be cleaned without removing them (is that what you get for under 100 geetr?) ?

anyway, i think ive decided to let them tick for a few more months and see if it gets worse or better (unlikely).

anyway, i'm so impressed by the knowledge on this forum...

keep an eye out for more of my newbie questions....

[edit]

oh oh i got one !

can i put that crappy injector 'add to tank when you fill' cleaner you see in the servos through my rb25det ? (im leaning towards not but interested to see what people think)

Edited by Dannyism

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...