Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Niiice... do you know where you can get a Legalis R cat-back system? They're 3 inch and fully stainless aren't they? The best I've been able to find is an exhaust shop that has done several stageas apparently, who said a stainless custom system would be around $850 + cost of exhaust tip(s) ($80 +). That in 3" stainless.

Edit: OOPS mis-read - you can only get that system for M35 :)

Perhaps give Henry @ RMS (http://www.rmsmotorparts.com.au) a call (03) 9872 6669.

Really nice guy and his prices are really, really good.

If there is something similar for an S2, he will find it (he is the only one who knew of & found my front pipe).

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

does any one know if i can put my 32 (gtr if that makes any difference) on to my s2 stag?? i no there will be some modding involved just how much?

its a cat back!

Edited by chef_stagea
  • 2 weeks later...

Got cat-back done the other day... I fitted a stainless 3" split front/dump with my hi-flow turbo and 5" body 3" flanged hi-flow cat' myself, and it wouldn't *quite* line up with the stock cat-back (flange angled a little too low on the cat) but with a bunch of gaskets, one bolt, and some forcing I was able to make it hold just enough for a risky drive to the exhaust shop... Exhaust Technologies was the only place I could get it done in time; they did it within the week :ninja: full 3" mandrel-bent mild system with stainless magnaflow ovals mid and rear. Sounds bloody drony, and a bit loud perhaps... but bloody awesome :banana: Will post pics/video. System doesn't hang too low ('cept for the cat'), and the stainless twin tips they installed to match the originals really look awesome - long, so that you can't see the muffler from the rear. Clever that.

Just installed a custom 3" split dump/front pipe with metal cat by Liverpool exhaust for M35 AR-X. The result is very noticeable with more torque and quicker response than stock. Turbo spooling is also very audible as well, perhaps a bit too loud for my liking, but the gain is well worth it.

I still have the stock cat-back as well.

Just installed a custom 3" split dump/front pipe with metal cat by Liverpool exhaust for M35 AR-X. The result is very noticeable with more torque and quicker response than stock. Turbo spooling is also very audible as well, perhaps a bit too loud for my liking, but the gain is well worth it.

I still have the stock cat-back as well.

I had exactly the same experience with C34 re: louder turbo spool. But I agree, increased power & marginally better fuel economy means I'll put up with it :P

I had exactly the same experience with C34 re: louder turbo spool. But I agree, increased power & marginally better fuel economy means I'll put up with it :P

better fuel ????

i was goun 450-500 without the exhaust.

now lucky to see 410 .... !!!

Lol yeah I was just hoping for a little better consumption at cruise. But if I take advantage of the extra power then I have to expect worse consumption... so far consumption is worse :P But hoping if I go on some long trips it will show improvement. Spend most of my time driving in limp-mode anyway with the transmission stuck in 3rd gear 'cause of my (* ignition circuit problem (cuts out or shorts or something randomly). When/if I ever fix that it might improve.

Im looking at a 3" turbo back system for my s1.

Am thinking of going down the lines of a just jap bellmouth stainless front/dump and hopefully this http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skyline-cat-back-ex...A1%7C240%3A1318

I have just bought a pair of brand new clear side indicators c/w new amber bulbs straight plug in job for NZ$39 the pair from here:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194674347.htm

If you sign up to Trade Me (it is possible from Aus) you could buy direct or otherwise I could get some for anyone interested. But the relevance to this thread is that he also stocks a range of exhaust tips (steel, not stainless) from about $75. If you look on his entry above and click on "seller's other listings" you can see the tips but not shown are a number of twin tips (a range of single entry sizes including 3in) coming out of one muffler - cost about $150.00. I just got in today before he closed for Xmas and i don't know when he will open but when he does i will go in and take a few pics and post them up.

If you want here is an HKS Stagea specific muffler: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194346844.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...