Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found a few other threads but they werent very thourough, i just want to compile a complete list of what should be done, so far i can think of;

Water pump

timing belt

tension idler

spark plugs

fluid flush

oils

do other things generally get done or do you need them such as;

fuel filter

timing

seals

or are these the type of things you only fix when they're broken ?

help or input is much appreciated :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230801-100000km-service-to-do/
Share on other sites

Im also coming upto 100k and was about to start looking around for a list of things so this will be a big help for me :blink:

So far ive got all of the fluids, coolant, spark plugs, oil filter, still trying to find the part no for a fuel filter.

Would it be a good time to do break fluid? or is it not really needed

Yeah im up for the 100k service very soon also..

Will be doing everything listed in this thread and then some, since im prepping my car for track (turbs, brakes & weight) I will changing most of the gasket's, new pads + lines and brake fluid, cleaning out cooler.

Basically doing everything i possibly can.

^^^ On top of these items, I'd at least check the fuel filter & clean it out. It's situated in the fuel tank via a stalk on my car. Just Jap and others have a few quite often.

For race tracks, it's a good idea to check minimum width and condition of brake rotors. When at a minimum and with heavy braking, they can heat up all of a sudden (which is a bit less of a problem when it's for road use only). Brake fluids are worth changing especially if the car is left standing for periods without use, since they can absorb moisture from the air at low temps.

Check bushes, drive shaft boots too.

Cheers, T

100,000 K's, it's one of the big ones.

So change,

Oil

Oil filter

Air filter / Clean pods

Fuel filter

Battery (If you think is getting old)

Radiator Coolent Flush

Brake pads / Machine Disks (If worn)

Timing Belts / Fan Belts

Spark Plugs

Check all your tyres (Change if worn)

Gear Box oil (If had not been done)

Check under the car / drivetrain

And do the genaral service look over.

Thats mostly what I can think of.

I'm also coming up to my 100,000kms service.

Have been told timing belt, tensioner, tensioner bearing, water pump, coolant flush and at another place some other things too.

Any mechanics out there who feel like throwing a quote with parts and labour included would be absolute legends.

God like in fact :D

Changing the timing belt would probley cost $300 $400 tops. Give or take (Approx)

If you do it yourself, make sure you put the belt on correctly and must be aligned perfect. Other wise you can alter the timing and your car will be out of wack = loss of power and car runs shit.

I was not there to see him change it, otherwise I could tell you what to do.

No need to change your cam gears. Only do that it you want to race the car and/or adjust the angles of the cams open and closing.

for those of you who are saying should the fuel filter be changed at the 100k service.... well i hope you change it atleast every 20k.

some other things to consider...

Engine oil

Oil filter

Diff oil

G/box oil

Wheel bearings

Radiator coolant

Water pump

Thermostat

Air filter

Timing belt

Spark plugs

Brake fluid

Clutch fluid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you tried another indicator stalk? Sometimes these go bad and cause issues.
    • They're so beautiful 😍
    • Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up to. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.
    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
×
×
  • Create New...