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Hey Guy’s

I’m finally getting things together for my RB20 rebuild. after so many engine problems due to the poorly designed Nissan sleave that runs the Oil pump and oil pressure problems killing my turbo Multiple times, due to how much power I’ve been pushing through the motor. I’ve decided it’s finally time for a rebuild.

Yes I know I could drop in another engine for cheaper or go an rb25, but my issue hear is reliability, in other words unless it’s 100% new and drop forged pistons and connecting rods I wont be happy with it. And for the budget rebuilding the RB20 is the logical choice.

Although I have a few questions on certain areas of the rebuild.

I was thinking about replacing the cams. Although there is so much info out there that many people have clamed that it’s not worth replacing them and have read that depending on how much power the engine is making it can actually make performance worse. Is there any one hear who has had any experience with replacing cams on an RB20?

Also what about running cam gears on the standard cams?

What cams are compatible with the RB20?

Also if any one has any suggestions on good ways to get good power out of an RB20 let me know!

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Hey Viper (Ha, now all i can think about is that Gladiator with blue hair . . . don't pretend you don't know who I'm talking about),

Thought I'd drop in a few questions to help promote discussion.

You say you want reliability, in what capacity? Do you want another 100 - 200 thousand k's out of her, or do you want just want to stop blowing turbos (i suppose ideally you want both).

What do you want to do with the car, is it to remain your daily turn key car that will get you everywhere and back, or a thrill day track thrasher. I guess what I'm getting at is do you want to enter into more motorsport events more regularly, and what types?

Lastly, you know what hp you're sitting on now, what are you aiming for in the build? Do you want to future proof for bigger numbers later on?

Lastly, take everything I say with a grain of salt as I thump around in a bog stocker, but if it were me I'd want to make sure I had a programmable ECU, your attempting to change a hell of a lot of things and a safe reliable tune = reliable and drivable.

My 2 cents, keep us posted.

Hey Viper (Ha, now all i can think about is that Gladiator with blue hair . . . don't pretend you don't know who I'm talking about),

Thought I'd drop in a few questions to help promote discussion.

You say you want reliability, in what capacity? Do you want another 100 - 200 thousand k's out of her, or do you want just want to stop blowing turbos (i suppose ideally you want both).

What do you want to do with the car, is it to remain your daily turn key car that will get you everywhere and back, or a thrill day track thrasher. I guess what I'm getting at is do you want to enter into more motorsport events more regularly, and what types?

Lastly, you know what hp you're sitting on now, what are you aiming for in the build? Do you want to future proof for bigger numbers later on?

Lastly, take everything I say with a grain of salt as I thump around in a bog stocker, but if it were me I'd want to make sure I had a programmable ECU, your attempting to change a hell of a lot of things and a safe reliable tune = reliable and drivable.

My 2 cents, keep us posted.

mainly the car will be used for daily driving, what i want out of the car is response.... i know that is difficult because the RB20 is not the most responsive engine to start with. although i have read allot of information recently that says allot of benefits can be gained simply by porting and flowing the head and manifolds. apparently the is allot to be gained including throttle response and helping the turbo to spool up earlier.

i am not really looking for any more top end power, as before me engine troubles i was happily making around 210rwkw running a GCG hi flow turbo (rated to 450hp and producing most of it's max power from 4000-7000RPM) and a re-chipped ECU. so my main goal is to try and tap into more of the lower end to mid range power of the engine for more response.

as to Ex!$t3nZ comment about the RB24, i too was thinking about this for a while, but after following HPI magazines whole right up (over quite few issues) on there project r32 with the rb24 build, at the very end of the project they wrote an article calming that it wasn't really worth the effort. there wasn't much of an increase in torque or response that you would get over just strengthening the bottom end with forged pistons and connecting rods. as at the end of the day putting all the same mods on standard rb20 would produce close to same power and toque. and it wasn't worth spending the extra cash to stroke it. also personally i feel an engine loses part of its personality or character once its stroked, but that just might be me!

another thing is that due to the standard size bore and stroke the RB20 doesn't put as much ware or strain on the bore compared to the RB25 or 26 and this can give the rb20 a really long and healthy life if the engine is well looked after. if it hadn't been for oil pump problems my original engine would have lasted for ages, as i had done nearly 190,000ks with it and it still had around 159psi per cylinder. considering new from the factory they have around 165 to 170psi per cylinder that only shows that rb20's can hold good compression if they are well looked after.

mate u chose the wrong engine if u wanted it to b responsive, response is nothing... ive got an rb22 and i love the lag. if your going to rebuild and dont wanna go through the trouble of gettin gtr gear to make it an rb24 just get sum over sized pistons and make it a 2.2, stick a gt30 on it with a set of cams and ul have a nice daily. Who cares if its not responsive does it really need to have balls low down if your just driving to the shops?

mate u chose the wrong engine if u wanted it to b responsive, response is nothing... ive got an rb22 and i love the lag. if your going to rebuild and dont wanna go through the trouble of gettin gtr gear to make it an rb24 just get sum over sized pistons and make it a 2.2, stick a gt30 on it with a set of cams and ul have a nice daily. Who cares if its not responsive does it really need to have balls low down if your just driving to the shops?

I know the rb20 isn't a great engine when in comes to response, I stated that earlier. But I’m trying to find ways to make it a little more responsive. I’m not looking for top end and a gt30 is not realistic, as it is ratted as 500hp turbo, even HPI magazine found the KKR 480hp turbo to lagy for the RB24 and went down to a KKR 430HP. My current turbo is rated to 450HP and is almost equivalent to a GT28 and its lagy enough.

Hey Viper (Ha, now all i can think about is that Gladiator with blue hair . . . don't pretend you don't know who I'm talking about),

um let me guess dose it start with the letter "y" and have six letters and split into two letter silybles

Do you have a preferred engine builder and tuner in mind?

i have a meating on the weekend with Joe from Skyline Performance to discuss certain aspects of the rebuild, get an itamised list of exsacly everything that will be done and get a quote for the job.

Have you thought about a front facing plenum. You know the Greedy style ones. Not sure if that'll give you the 'response' your after, just a thought.

That’s an idea I hadn’t considered. I will have a look into that, Thanks

you have to remember that the "greddy style" and also the genuine greddy plenums are only made for the RB25,26.

everyone has there own personal opinions of front facing plenums on RB20's. i put one on my 20 but everything else was done at the same time so i have no idea if it made a difference.

best bet is to get a custom top half that bolts to the original runners.

I can promise 100% it will make a big difference having a front facing plenum.

i assume that this would help air flow through the entire rev range, helping to improve response and possibly top end?

best bet is to get a custom top half that bolts to the original runners.

any idea on who much this type of custom work would cost, and dose it have any advantages over an after market bolt on system.

i assume that this would help air flow through the entire rev range, helping to improve response and possibly top end?

any idea on who much this type of custom work would cost, and dose it have any advantages over an after market bolt on system.

on an RB20 im not so sure. the best example is legend01 on SAU, 300+kw with standard plenum. i see it the only reason to change it on the 20 is for asthetics. possibly helping high in the revs but certainly not helping its endless torque hole in the low revs.

i wouldnt have a clue on pricing etc. engineering shops, and some(pick wisely) performance workshops could make you one.

the biggest advantage having it made locally is you can be rest assured the quality will be top notch.

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