Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det Wont Start

LINCNDLOZ

By LINCNDLOZ,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JET-25L Proficient

JET-25L

Posted
Posted

Hmmm okay really really long shot... but does your crank angle sensor have a little pin in the middle of the shaft? After i did my 100 000k'er i couldn't get my car to start... it would just crank and crank. Went to swap cas's with an rb20 one and i noticed it had a little pin that runs through the middle of the shaft... must be something to grip on or something i'm not too sure it's been a while since i had a look at it.. but i simply made one up to suit and put it in and car started first time.

I'm sure that makes no sense at all but if it does it's worth a try... only takes a second so at least you can rule that out!

Steve.

LINCNDLOZ Contributor

LINCNDLOZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hmmm okay really really long shot... but does your crank angle sensor have a little pin in the middle of the shaft? After i did my 100 000k'er i couldn't get my car to start... it would just crank and crank. Went to swap cas's with an rb20 one and i noticed it had a little pin that runs through the middle of the shaft... must be something to grip on or something i'm not too sure it's been a while since i had a look at it.. but i simply made one up to suit and put it in and car started first time.

I'm sure that makes no sense at all but if it does it's worth a try... only takes a second so at least you can rule that out!

Steve.

Yeah mate mine still has the pin through it and i know my cas is working fine

drf76 Collaborator

drf76

Posted
Posted
Yeah mate mine still has the pin through it and i know my cas is working fine

howd did u check injector pulse?, with a noid light?, so u have 12v at injectors and coils/ignitor, is ur CAS powered by 5volts from the ECU, sounds like it CAS related if both injectors and coils dont work. Just double check all wiring plugs cause you may have power and earth but a very high resistance in wiring, you havent painted over any pins or have any corrosion on them?

JET-25L Proficient

JET-25L

Posted
Posted

Hmmm yeah i think the cas might be alright and it's something else. As said above if it's 180 out or whatever it should just crank and crank and then pop one off i know from experience ha ha.

Why doesn't an auto electrician want to touch it? Too many possibilities and no idea where to start or...

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Hmmm yeah i think the cas might be alright and it's something else. As said above if it's 180 out or whatever it should just crank and crank and then pop one off i know from experience ha ha.

Why doesn't an auto electrician want to touch it? Too many possibilities and no idea where to start or...

yeah ONLY if it's 180 out.

If it's 90 out it won't backfire or pop. The guy who says he needs the help isn't really being all that helpful himself. You suggest something and he says, nope...replaced that. That doesn't mean shit when you have two faulty sensors. Always expect the unexpected and don't assume a 'different' sensor is always a better one.

This guy needs to be giving a little more information on what's happening. How has he checked things, what does it sound like when he's cranking it. Does it sound like it wants to go? or nothing at all?

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
even with 180degrees out, youd expect a backfire or something to show that its trying, ifs its total dead its missing one of the two key factors or both of them

Not exactly sure but I don't see any mention that it doesn't backfire or something.

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
Not exactly sure but I don't see any mention that it doesn't backfire or something.

180, 90, you'll hear something, might not be a big bang but it wont be crank crank crank nothing (thats if its only timing related)

i assumed that the engine was completely dead whilst cranking, because if it was backfiring or spluttering i would think he would of mentioned it. But one thing i've learnt about ass-u-ming is that it makes an ass out of you and me... :P

1+ on more info though, its hard to suggest a fix when you dont know whats going on.

I would spray some carby cleaner next, see if it gets the old girl going :D

LINCNDLOZ Contributor

LINCNDLOZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys thanks for the tips i will start again with what i have done and what i have found. currently engine has no spark or injector pulse. CAS has been tried on a different car and worked. i have also checked voltage to CAS which is 12 v. i'am also getting no resistance to earth which means the CAS is getting a good earth. i checked both the 1 and 180 degree signals at the ecu with a multimeter and getting a pulse there. the injectors have 12 volts and the wiring back to the ecu is fine. injector pulse is checked with a noid light. i have check for power and earth at the coils and ignitor module which are fine. except im not getting a signal out of the ecu to fire the plugs. i have checked resistance values of the coils which are in speck. i have have checked the whole loom out of the car for broken wires etc. done a complete continuity check on the loom which was ok. checked every connector for proper connection which was ok. have checked all ecu power and earth circuits which are ok. i have tryed different ecus. i have manualy powerd and earthed each injector (with ecu dissconected) and each injector fires. CAS is in correct posistion and pin is in shaft and D locator is intact. i know it has to be something simple stoping this thing from going but i cant just seem to find it.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

If you don't have spark or injector pulse, the CAS is fine and all the power to module/ECU is fine, all earths are good etc, injectors and coils bench test ok, then it is technically impossible to not have spark or injector pulse.

Congrats on having the hardest problem to fix....IN THE UNIVERSE!!!

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

But yeah, like you said...it will be something simple in the end.

Have you checked to make sure your noid light works on another car? and have you checked to make sure your spark tester works on another car also?

Now that you've tested everything else, you need to test your testing equipment :)

LINCNDLOZ Contributor

LINCNDLOZ

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you don't have spark or injector pulse, the CAS is fine and all the power to module/ECU is fine, all earths are good etc, injectors and coils bench test ok, then it is technically impossible to not have spark or injector pulse.

Congrats on having the hardest problem to fix....IN THE UNIVERSE!!!

Just after some ideas from people who may of had this problem. not smart arse comments

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Just after some ideas from people who may of had this problem. not smart arse comments

It wasn't a smart arse comment. And if you feel you have to take an attitude like that, then forget it.

It was intended as a light hearted comment...maybe read back a few posts...do you really think I am not trying to help?. I offered you my mobile number via PM so that you could call to discuss it in detail but to my knowledge you haven't used that resource yet.

Offer still stands, though, I'm only here to help.

Jdfnq Proficient

Jdfnq

Posted
Posted
Just after some ideas from people who may of had this problem. not smart arse comments

shit mate....

I would really listen to what dan has to say..... I call him and ask him shit and I am over 2000kms away....

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
Guys thanks for the tips i will start again with what i have done and what i have found. currently engine has no spark or injector pulse. CAS has been tried on a different car and worked. i have also checked voltage to CAS which is 12 v. i'am also getting no resistance to earth which means the CAS is getting a good earth. i checked both the 1 and 180 degree signals at the ecu with a multimeter and getting a pulse there. the injectors have 12 volts and the wiring back to the ecu is fine. injector pulse is checked with a noid light. i have check for power and earth at the coils and ignitor module which are fine. except im not getting a signal out of the ecu to fire the plugs. i have checked resistance values of the coils which are in speck. i have have checked the whole loom out of the car for broken wires etc. done a complete continuity check on the loom which was ok. checked every connector for proper connection which was ok. have checked all ecu power and earth circuits which are ok. i have tryed different ecus. i have manualy powerd and earthed each injector (with ecu dissconected) and each injector fires. CAS is in correct posistion and pin is in shaft and D locator is intact. i know it has to be something simple stoping this thing from going but i cant just seem to find it.

what does it sound like when cranking? is it no hint of a spark or splutter? or is it just completely dead and turning over?

can you smell fuel?

is your fuel pump working? is it definately pumping fuel to the rail?

after cranking it over for a minute, if you take the spark plugs are they wet with fuel or dry?

have you tried taking the spark plug out, connecting the coil to it, earth the plug out like it was in the block, then crank it over and physically see a strong spark?

how old is the fuel in your tank? is it off?

what ecu are you using?

what injectors are you using?

what cas are you using?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kyer32
      R32 gtst speedo out by 10kph

      By Kyer32 · Posted

      Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • Kyer32
      R32 gtst speedo out by 10kph

      By Kyer32 · Posted

      so I need a new speedo cable 
    • tsuokun
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • niZmO_Man
      R32 gtst speedo out by 10kph

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • niZmO_Man
      Rv37 400r questions

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...