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So the motors finally here r34 n1 motor which is used..

Before i go about installing this i guess i should test it out.

I have a leak down tester at home and will do this. also compression, but clearly needs car to turn over to do that job.

anything else i should do? maybe remove the head and check it all out???

:(

post-31456-1218161720_thumb.jpg

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I would strip it completely and check everything! Very Simple.

Main bearings, Big ends and small ends, check bore, check all rings and gaps. Obviously check pistons and ringlands for any signs of detonation. Do almost everything you would be doing if you were building it from scratch.

Head: check your valve guides, check how well the valves are seating, spring tension, lash clearance. I guess while you have it apart you could easily do the oil mods.

I assume you wouldnt buy a r34 gtr longblock just to throw in and thrash and wait till it dies inorder to do it right later on yeh?

Edited by r33_racer
I would strip it completely and check everything! Very Simple.

Main bearings, Big ends and small ends, check bore, check all rings and gaps. Obviously check pistons and ringlands for any signs of detonation. Do almost everything you would be doing if you were building it from scratch.

Head: check your valve guides, check how well the valves are seating, spring tension, lash clearance. I guess while you have it apart you could easily do the oil mods.

I assume you wouldnt buy a r34 gtr longblock just to throw in and thrash and wait till it dies inorder to do it right later on yeh?

Uhha, that was the go with the old motor/one that came in the car, and it lasted 3 years :P

head seems to be standard also, and has 05u stamped on it? i figure n1 motors use standard heads??

block is 24u tho.

i shall get it checked and checked again then! tho if i am to go that far i may aswell get new pistons/rods put in right?

Uhohhh moar money!!

Are you sure that's a R34 motor? I was always under the impression that 1) R34GTR all had a different coil cover badge, the one you have resembles a 32 / 33, and 2) the CAS on a R34 has a black cap and is higher resolution than 32/33 which were all silver like yours.

Not being a sceptic, just don't want you being ripped off...

umm according to the seller on yahoo, r34 n1 motor and engine number is high and resembles this.

but it was installed into a r32 in japan hence the 32 cas :P

as for the top covers they are all repainted.. anything is possible..

Centre covers are r32 (well the badge is anyway), maybe it was an r34 motor with JWO covers or something like and the previoous owner wanted to keep them for a new motor, then just bought some from Yahoo auctions and threw them on for the sale

I would strip it completely and check everything! Very Simple.

Main bearings, Big ends and small ends, check bore, check all rings and gaps. Obviously check pistons and ringlands for any signs of detonation. Do almost everything you would be doing if you were building it from scratch.

i concur.

While its not in the car and you dont know where its come from exactly etc etc.

I'd be going over it all before installing it

OK not being a smart ass now but that would mean the cams in the head are not from a R34 engine either... the keyways on the CAS are completely different between 34 and 32/33

This information MIGHT come in handy for you when you begin tinkering with it.

;)

shit if its an idea to strip it down then why bother rebuilding it standard again.. i do agree checking it is a good idea and i will do this. but to put it all back together again is a funny move, i guess it all comes down to money.

i may even get a friend over and do the checking myself.

will i have to dig up clearances for n1 motors? or is this the same as any other rb26????

as for the head/cams etc. they are aftermarket cams in this motor, but i had some pretty good cams in my previous motor which suited the turbos very well. i will reuse them i guess.

Off to the snow for the weekend now, i guess this will happen sometime next week :(

if anyone can help me with the info i need about clearances that would be great :)

great to see it finally arrived, shame about the timing when it was such a bargain if you are going to sell it.

I would 100% have it pulled down and measured, I am doing exactly that atm with my new bottom end. Just not worth the chance that something could be wrong.

Bah.... run it till it blows (if it does) and then pull it down and replace everything ;)

You have just as much chance of it blowing because it's rebuilt incorrectly as you do from it blowing due to age/fault.

i agree with benm.

f**k paranoia. Ignorance is bliss ;)

Bolt up some turbos, chuck it in the car and see what it can do.

I never even did a compression test on my wrecker rb25 until i binned the car and decided it was worth checking the numbers before sale. Best numbers i've ever seen.....

Hahaha, well some advice is good here, and others i really like Moar!!

the way i see it, if i am going to pull it down why waste putting it back together the way it came.... if n1 motors are not all that great.

but i have started to go the pussy route and its getting pulled down to see what its like inside.. i also did a leak down test yesterday and it came up perfect :D the gauge hardly moved off the set position showing a very non leaky motor. also tried to spin itself around a few times. it spins very freely with plugs out and doesnt appear to be any problems there.

So far the sump is off, and draining of all excess oil. i'll throw some photos on here later.

i'm already shopping for some bits, i am going to work out what arp rod bolts to get.. head studs and main studs also. hell i think i may aswell rebuild the whole damn thing may aswell do it right.

And Duncan. i think the car is staying put for now. might just get a bank loan to fund that business. i kinda like debt.

Edited by Angus Smart

Well it has begun and i am stripping it down some more, and no doubt heading towards a rebuild in dew time..

now here are a few photos, tho uploading to the forum isnt quiet working at this time.

A few days ago..

07082008004.jpg

Earlier today

12082008017.jpg

And now

12082008018.jpg

12082008020.jpg

Pistons appear to be the standard N1 items x43 AB0 0.5

everything seems to be in good condition, tho i haven't spun the crank yet but the bores that i can see look nice, unlike the old block...

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