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Copper Spark Plugs

Sumo

By Sumo,
in General Maintenance

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antuanstylar Enthusiast

antuanstylar

Posted
Posted

Im currently running the NGK BCPR6E coppers in mine with a slight re-gap and i cant notice the difference between them and the platinums i had in it before, although I know the platinums and iridiums are better coz they last longer, performance wise i cant notice any difference, and they havent melted..... or then again have they? i better check Sumo you have made me paranoid, off to the garage with me

  • 8 months later...
gts4diehard Rising Star

gts4diehard

Posted
Posted

hi, i used to have the platinums in my R32 - gts4, they were ok until i started using optimax, i think the heat range of the plug did not suit the optimax as the plugs went orange on the plug insulators- the car started idling roughly so thats why i checked them.

Consequently now running ngk copper plugs, they run sweet without any noticeable drop in power. The car has been to queensland raceway and been worked hard on a reasonably hot day and it ran perfectly over a 4 hour period, revving to 8000 on a couple of occasions. I think the only advantage is that platinums offer is that they dont need to be changed regularly. Having to get a mechanic to change your plugs every year on a RB20det would be a pretty expensive exercise so looking at it that way platinums are cheaper if you cant do it yourself.

Stephen

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Melting spark plugs tells you that the plug isnt at fault, there is somethin wrong with ur tuning unless your heat range is grossly wrong (which it isnt).

You should try a BCPR7ES or BKR7E (V-Power) plug next time. I use the latter, and its a good plug!

CroatianR33 Collaborator

CroatianR33

Posted
Posted

OK firstly. I ordered a set of NGK Iridiums for my RB25DET and they sent me plugs with a 1.1mm gap but they are meant to be 0.8mm. The GTR's use a 1.1mm gap. I have no idea about the heat range but I believe the main difference between Iridiums and Coppers are the amount of km's the plug will live for.

I'm still using the 1.1mm gap but will change them for 0.8mm Coppers very soon as the top end is hitting a flat spot.

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted

CroatianR33

the standard GTST uses 1.1mm

so NGK iridium replacements are also 1.1mm gap BKR5EIX-11

but you can get them in 0.8, I just bought iridium 0.8 today as well.

part number is BKR5EIX without any numbers after it comes pregapped at 0.8mm in this plug - is the standard gap!

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted

wow just put them in!

My old plugs turned out to be NGK PFR6A-11 - absolutely fouled, really badly and right up past the seals too! The gap had grown to 1.3.

I was told I had these plugs put in at compliance, but I very much doubt it since I was told they were gapped at 0.8mm and they arn't

The car's response is much improved with the new plugs NGK Iridium BKR5EIX at 0.8mm, makes higher boost than before and faster. I threw some redline injector cleaner in the fuel tank after looking in through the spark plug hole there was a fair bit of black stuff on top of the piston. Due to this additive I'm not sure if it is running leaner but the exhaust does smell like it.

Will be taking it for a 1 hour drive tonight to test if it continues to respond well once it gets really hot.

Also the auto box kicks down properly on the 8 minute test run. I wonder if it is fixed as it is running a microtech LT-12 designed for manual but seems to work plug and play.

Will let you know how it goes.

If all goes well I'm off to get a dynotune on my next tank to ensure lean fuel ratios.

If goes badly it is either a full manual conversion with GT3040 turbo or just rewire to piggyback the original ecu: It depends on whether I decide I need a R34gtr Vspec.

Edge Proficient

Edge

Posted
Posted

Aside from idling stalls after starting and almost no response for first few seconds to full throttle: For 1/2 hour ran really well going out.

On the way back 1/2 hour started doing the explosions in exhaust under boost again particularly after cruising at almost no throttle for a while. I'm sure the problem is the tune at idle cruise is at 10deg timing where it should be 15deg in drive, and also it is too rich.

One thing though is that the gears seem to be changing properly now.

According to the NGK guide I have

Wet Fouling

-causes-

The fuel setting (A/F ratio) is rich.

Faulty auto choke or dirty air cleaner elements.

Idling for a long time.

The spark timing is too late.

The heat range of the plug is too cold.

~~ what I think I have~~~

plug too cold - tick - now fixed

timing too late - I think at idle 10 deg advance is - tick

idleing too long - was always in a gear that made it run at 1500rpm - tick

running rich - exhaust was leaving black oily deposit in muffler pipe - tick

So I guess a retune is in order. Will book it in tomorrow after a run with standard computer in to run the diagnostics checks and to check how the gearbox responds with standard ECU in place.

  • 7 years later...
  • 3 months later...
Black_CSR Rising Star

Black_CSR

Posted
Posted

If the plugs have melted.. the car is running either too lean or to hot of a plug. Copper is the best electrical conductor wise and give best spark. Plats & Iridium are made for there longevity and change them at less intervals.

StealthX Veteran

StealthX

Posted
Posted

^^^ woah mega 4 month thread revival!

copper FTW! iridiums or platinums are shit. especially in turbo cars, there's no way you'd get 150k kms from one set of plugs in a skyline!

they're all marketing IMO, i sell them every day...

oh and p.s. ngk or nothing. Bosch and champion are shit. Bosch have quality control problems and champion plugs are budget alternatives...

Al Despo Proficient

Al Despo

Posted
Posted

Yers repco always have ngks, btw 4 month thread revival you say? Two posts back and we talking 8-9 year revival when our cars were considered still newish lol. Plus i wouldnt run champion in my lawn mower for my 2 cents worth

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