Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got defected for having no back seats in the car, i told them it was because i had 8 wheels in there the day before from a drift day

they said put the seats back in and the defect will go away....

pitty about the rest of the list.. :thumbsup:

^ Totally agree with the above.. Illegal unless registered as 2 seater..

Prevents fully sick drifters driving around with stripped out cars.

Huh? Fully sick drifters... isnt that an oxy-moron? :thumbsup:

removing rear seats gives me alot more room for tyres its not just about making it lighter :D

+1

You're better off eating a lighter breakfast than removing the seat.. It only weighs a kilo or two anyway. Only way to fit a set of semi's or drift tyres is to remove it though :)

interesting read, but if u did register it as a 2 seater how much would it cost, or is it more cost effective to do it around rego time? whats the exact process and prices involved? if someone can list this it would be awesome

Basically all you need to do is remove the rear seats and the rear seat belts. Then go to a mechanic and get a blue slip to change from 4/5 seater to 2 seater (around $90) from memory. Then off to the rta to lodge it with them and thats it.

Edited by reaper

I dont think its that simple, im pretty sure you need to either weld up the holes from the seat belts or put bolts in them and then take it to an engineer, blue slip guys cant engineer things, they read what the car has been engineered for and then say yes the car is like that, so you'd need to carry out the work on the car, get an engineers cert for it, then take it with the engineers cert to get a blue slip place then that place would pass you on the inspection as a two seater car then you take it to the rta and re register it as a two seater

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...