Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I am going to replace the intake piping on my 33 GTR at the same time the turbos etc are all upgraded for a HKS hard piping kit. The issue is there seems to be two possible options and I am not sure which ones I should get and why there is such a big price difference.

The two options are:

1 is the HKS suction kit 70018-AN004, http://www.nengun.com/hks/premium-suction

the other is the HKS racing chamber kit 70008-AN012 http://www.nengun.com/hks/racing-chamber-kit

both being for the RB26 (R33).

Bearing in mind I already have M's pods and I am going D'Jetro, I am not sure which kit is the one I should be getting, it seems to me that the only difference between these two kits is the racing chamber kit does away with the need to fabricate afm delete pipes as it bolts up to the filters however given the cost for me to have two afm delete pipes fabricated is only $70 odd dollars it seems that I may as well get the premium suction kit and save myself $300.

Am I missing something?

Edited by R34kid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231805-hks-intake-kit-help/
Share on other sites

The Racing Chamber Kit does not have anything to do with pipework to the turbo's. It's only the pipe across the engine and Y-Pipe to intercooler pipework before the inner guard.

You need a racing suction kit 70020-AN008 plus the airflow-less adapters.

Cheers

Marty

No i do not think that is correct the racing suction reload kit is what part number you have given and that is just the pods and a small metal pipe attachment?

I already have M's pods so I think I actually need both the premium suction kit and the racing chamber kit DOH because the tuner is now saying that the y-pipe that comes with the racing chamber kit dramatically reduces air turbulence

Edited by R34kid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...