Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've booked my car into RPW. Can anyone vouch for them being a decent automotive tuning centre?

Would like to hear some genuine comments. Anyone one know some one who's had webers done there?

Thanks Rick

hey rick

i had ma mitsi lancer done there b4 when i use to drive one

nver had a problem with them :)

but all i had done was extractorsm, pod and fuel pressure regulator n cold air induction

seems to be a good group of guys there tho

I've booked my car into RPW. Can anyone vouch for them being a decent automotive tuning centre?

Would like to hear some genuine comments. Anyone one know some one who's had webers done there?

Thanks Rick

I had a manual te magna before the skyline and used these guys, they knew there stuff but i had a feeling i was paying way to much as i knew bugger all back then. They charged me over $2000 for a stock clutch replacement plus clutch hydrolics. Looking back i was definetly ripped off.

What car do you have, if its a mitsubishi then they are very knowledgable on mods and stuff.

However they (Dave) will rip you off if he gets a chance.

They are very good just be vary is all, i was a member of the aussiemagna club and i heard of other members been sold second hand stuff and paying and being told the goods were new regulary.

I hope my comments are in the rules i am assuming they are ok as RPW have nothing to do with skylineaustralia. Apologies otherwise

hmmm ..just be careful.

check out www.ozvr4.com

They are regulars on there and can talk up some bull ca ca

Thanks for your input, I have a 1978 Datsun Skyline that has a crate NISMO motor , L28 bored to 3.0L with triple 45mm webers and a 1/2 rally cam. Japanese intake manifold and jap extractors which may also be NISMO items. I'm just looking to get my triple webers tuned ,so there won't be many parts supplied, only labour and dyno time. Thanks Rick.

Thanks for your input, I have a 1978 Datsun Skyline that has a crate NISMO motor , L28 bored to 3.0L with triple 45mm webers and a 1/2 rally cam. Japanese intake manifold and jap extractors which may also be NISMO items. I'm just looking to get my triple webers tuned ,so there won't be many parts supplied, only labour and dyno time. Thanks Rick.

Take it some where else, dont let them touch anything other then mitsi / hyundai / crysler

There are heaps more knowledgable, realiable cheaper workshops for nissans then them. Try the consolidated workshop thread heaps to choose from. I highly recommend hyperdrive out of all those

its crazy we can say what we wont about this work shop that doesn't seem to have any sponsorship or input to these forums..

Just removed my comment so i dont cause any problems

Edited by Pattygtst
i agree dont go any where near them with your sort of car, plenty more knowledgeable workshops out there

just out of curiosity and in no way am I batting for this workshop, but what experience have you had with RPW sam?

Thanks everyone for your remarks, sorry to hear people have had bad experiences. I've been there done that too. Had a guy in Kalgoorlie(when I lived there) charge me over $500 for weber tune and they were still CRAP, was I pissed. Anyway luck has it I've tracked down a guy called Daryll who once owned Automotive Tuning Centre in Welshpool. He used to service this car when it did sprints at Wanneroo and once a year I'd bring it to Perth for him to service it. He's retired but has kept all is equipment and is going to look at them next week. Yahoo, at least i know what I can expect. Nothing worse than going to pick up your car, they hand you the bill not looking for your facial expressions, inside your saying "what the f..."and you drive away feeling RIPPED OFF no wonder ya get busted for hoon driving 2 minutes later. Sorry officer, I was just venting my blow off valve before i exploded. Enough said I think.

Lookout for my old skool dato once Woopass Wed starts up again as i intend to take it quite regularly.

Just got to apply some decent paint.Chow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun.   One I did back in the day
    • have no doubt and wanted too trust me and may regret later not necessarily worried about weight (would be 8 kg ish total) it was more the $$ to do it properly is about $6 - $7K in hardwear need long 310mm stroke jacks etc - plus install and call me whatever im not doing it myself even if wanted too cant weld etc  - thats $10K installed vs fraction of that cost while Ive spent some money on this POS I actually really dont like doing so unless its got a large chance to make me go faster 😁 hey in still carting this things around on a 15 yr old rusted open trailer so I can spend on racing not buy a new trailer to look better the manual jacks Ive had done are heavy and take space but are transportable and usable anywhere - taking or organizing even compressed air let alone nitrogen which is more whats needed coming from Perth to Winton or Sydney or the like honestly just adds to my brain headaches/ hurts of organisation also ha 15 mins job will get down to 2 - 5 min job vs 1 min job for airjacks - all tradeoffs I spose
    • Purely out of curiosity, how do you know all this @dbm7? Do you work with automatic gearboxes professionally? This goes way way way beyond "I've had an automatic Skyline once and did some mucking around"
    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
×
×
  • Create New...