Automatic R33 Gts25t To Full Ecu – Can It Be Done?

[daxter]

Hey, I'm at the point now where I need to go full ECU to get the most out of my mods and get the car running at its best. Only thing holding me back from doing this is the car is automatic.

I've done some searching and read a number of threads but still unsure of how the automatic will run.

I've also been told that the automatic box will get stuck in 2nd gear and wont be able to switch to 1st gear for taking off, however it will be able to use 2, 3 & 4 for normal driving.

I've also been told the auto will run fine apart from been abit jerky.

So I'm really lost at this point. Is there anyone here who has gone full ECU on there stock automatic box? Will the Snow and Power button still work?

Car is 1996 R33 GTS25t, Link G3 is the ECU I'm looking at getting.

Thanks for any help!

[paulr33]

dangerman4 (pretty sure thats right) has done it - over 300rwkw with auto setup, search for some of his posts

[zebra]

How about an Emanage ultimate?

Still a piggy back so the ECU to Auto Interface should still work and you have all the features of a Full ECU.

[Tangles]

yeah a few ppl are running shift kitted autos with Power FC

I was going to do it, the car ran ok with it in (a simple "secret squirrel" trick - stagea section - to reroute a wire makes it run fine, no engine check light)

have a chat to Toshi about a ecu remap perhaps? thats what Ive done (sold my PowerFC for what I bought it for)

so, my shift kitted auto is running a SAFC and SITC plus the Toshi ecu remap, sweet to drive, and pulls damn hard.

just didnt want to rebuild the auto after some abuse from a Power Fc due to the no ignition pause on gear change. harder shifts then normal and eventuall wears the auto gears.

having the normal ecu with a remap (timing, air, fuel, boost, unliited, etc etc) from Toshi really seemed the best choice to me for a 200akw daily

[STATUS]

yeah the PFC works with a few tricks, i have yet to play with all the e-manage auto hoopla so cant comment.

[daxter]

I was going to do it, the car ran ok with it in (a simple "secret squirrel" trick - stagea section - to reroute a wire makes it run fine, no engine check light)

What is this "secret squirrel" trick?

Thanks for the replys, basically I'm wanting to know what happen to other peoples autos when they changed to full ECU.

[linedup33]

isnt the auto computer seperate from the ecu? the ecu is on the passengers side and the auto computer is on the drivers side...so y wouldnt an aftermarket ecu work with auto's?

[paulr33]

nissan = autobox logic in the main ecu

other cars = seperate ecu for auto box

so when you remove the std nissan ecu you remove the autobox logic

like as tangles said you end up with a car that flares gears on change

cos the ecu keeps the ignition timing nailed flat out during a change

thats why theres an auto powerfc for toyota

the jxz100 has an auto powerfc, tons of options to control the autbox

you can set kick back speeds, preloading on the autobox and other cool stuff

[linedup33]

ahh ok got ya...i just always wondered y that was

thanks for clearing that up mate.

[dangerman4]

have a read

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-s-t146489.html

explains all my findings.

ive had over 300 kws at the rears for years.

with no issues

power , snow , in the middle all work fine.

Edited August 13, 2008 by dangerman4

[daxter]

Hey dangerman4, yes I had seen that thread of yours, was a very good read. I see a lot of people have opinions about this subject, but was good to read about someone who has actually done this.

How long did you keep your auto box stock for? And do you know how much power the factory auto will take?

My car is in the shop now getting the latest Link G4 computer installed and tune.

The tuner also said the auto box will work fine, not sure if he’s saying that just to get my money though, hence the reason for this thread.

Anyway ill report back here when I get my car back.

About to find out just how a factory auto box will go with an aftermarket ECU.

[Fastrotor]

The LINK is a fantastic choice, and as far as the auto goes, you will be fine. Obviously a shift kit is reccommended as well as extra/bigger trans oil cooler.

The factory computer does communicate with the auto ecu (behind the DS kick panel), and does pull timing on shift. So its not quite as soft on shifts, but other than that, its not really a problem.

I've had 260 rwkws for over a year on a 130,000 K box, and i race the car in bitumen sprints, so its not just a drag at a time either, and it was fine.

Notice how all the opinions about it not working or being bad are from people who don't have one...

I am in the process of redesigning the auto ecu, i have a working prototype pcb that replaces directly the auto ecu board , just by desoldering the factory connector and placing it onto the new pcb. Once this is done, if you run an aftermarket ecu, you then wire an input to one of the communications lines from the auto, and when earthed, the ecu pulls timing out.... that way you get your softer shifts. Obviously a good comp with lots of options and spare inputs is necessary.... link is perfect.

Oh and while here, anyone have any spare auto ecu's in cars round the place ? I need to get a spare connector. !

Gary

[daxter]

Thanks for the reply Gary, good to see there are a few people who have done this and it works

Fist mod ill do to the auto box will be a bigger trans cooler.

When my funds allow, ill then look into a shift kit or manual conversion. Though I would like a big powered auto R33, auto is so much easier for city driving

Edited August 13, 2008 by daxter

[Tangles]

no no

do shift kit first

then larger cooler

trust me

my shift kit was one of my last mods, i wish i wish it was my first

shift kit and auto service ASAP in my honest (qualified?) opinion

get the auto service lads to install a cooler at same time....

start savn'

$440 for service and shift kit at MV Autos (blackwood, SA, Mike is renowned for his shift kit and nissan knowledge)

around $120 for craig davies auto cooler, easy install.

[daxter]

wow ok thats alot cheaper than I thought it would be. Unfortunately I'm in NZ, so ill have to shop around for someone who can do that.

[dangerman4]

wow ok thats alot cheaper than I thought it would be. Unfortunately I'm in NZ, so ill have to shop around for someone who can do that.

contact mike at MV Automatics Blackwood SA

and he will post the bits you need with full instructions, so then you can get your local mechanic to fit.

its a fairly simple process.

and yes

shift kit 1st

trans cooler 2nd

[rob82]

The LINK is a fantastic choice, and as far as the auto goes, you will be fine. Obviously a shift kit is reccommended as well as extra/bigger trans oil cooler.

The factory computer does communicate with the auto ecu (behind the DS kick panel), and does pull timing on shift. So its not quite as soft on shifts, but other than that, its not really a problem.

I've had 260 rwkws for over a year on a 130,000 K box, and i race the car in bitumen sprints, so its not just a drag at a time either, and it was fine.

Notice how all the opinions about it not working or being bad are from people who don't have one...

I am in the process of redesigning the auto ecu, i have a working prototype pcb that replaces directly the auto ecu board , just by desoldering the factory connector and placing it onto the new pcb. Once this is done, if you run an aftermarket ecu, you then wire an input to one of the communications lines from the auto, and when earthed, the ecu pulls timing out.... that way you get your softer shifts. Obviously a good comp with lots of options and spare inputs is necessary.... link is perfect.

Oh and while here, anyone have any spare auto ecu's in cars round the place ? I need to get a spare connector. !

Gary

Sounds like your going about it the hard way. Quad input NAND/AND logic gate hooked up to any of the four shift solenoids. When it shifts the logic goes high or low or whatever way you design it and triggers an ignition retard event within an aftermarket ECU.

The only problem with this is that the troque reduction needs to be more with higher requested torque levels and I dont know of any commercailly available ECU's apart from a bosch motorsport ecu that have this amount of detail and by the sounds of it you dont have a spare $20k.

[KiwiRS4T]

wow ok thats alot cheaper than I thought it would be. Unfortunately I'm in NZ, so ill have to shop around for someone who can do that.

Daxter - try the Gearbox Factory in Auckland - they do shift kits

www.gearboxfactory.co.nz

[daxter]

Hey dangerman4 does MV Automatics have an email?

And KiwiRS4T thanks for that link, I've sent them an email, I live close to Henderson would be mint if they can do me a shift kit and larger trans cooler.

[daxter]

*Update*

Well I have my car back, 216rwkw on 12psi, ECU is GTS LINK G4 (running MAP sensor). Limited by injectors now.

And the car is driving just fine, no harsh gears changers and pulls hard. I have to say there is a lot of misleading information around here about going full ecu on an auto R33. Its good some people posted in here that have done this and I can join them and say it works fine.

Next up is a shift kit & trans cooler, then some 500cc injectors and tune for more power