Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25det Making 400 Plus Hp


MJTru
 Share

Recommended Posts

"I would guess i'm about 400hp to the rear wheels or less"<----- mate he clearly said 400hp or less :whistling:. so before you try and make a cock out of him, might wanna read carefully :D.

the guy seems to do all the work/tuning himself, through reading etc. takes alot of guts to rebuild a motor and tune it on your own. so unless you are sum guru, i wouldnt mock him :).

Read my post again 'carefully'. I've placed the area of concern in BOLD

You mention its making 600hp in the vid you posted. Not a chance with that turbo and especially with it bolted on to the std exhaust manifold.

Quote from his VID LINK -> CHECK ME OUT IN MY SKYLINE DOING A BURNOUT!!! 20psi@ 600 BHP

the blokes been nothing but polite and has said nothing but praise this forum, so why dont u guys cut him some slack and either a) help him out and answer his question, or b) keep ur 2c to urself :)

Posting a vid of doing a burnout on SAU in a public street and you wonder why people have game him shiet.

Yes I was a 'little' bit of an arse but you get that when a burnout on a public street is posted on SAU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

firstly i did read ur lovely post carefuly, but what is said in the video holds little weight when someone CLEARLY states in the TITLE of the post, and in the body of his thread (bout it being approx 400hp), when asking for your opinion :whistling:

secondly the guy lives in the Bahamas, and that street seems quieter then my driveway. throughout that whole video not one car drove by.

if u were indeed worried about the safety aspect of his post, u would have more likely commented on his method of tuning rather then an innocent burn out :D.

anyway good luck with finding ur answer dude, and hat off to u for being gutsy enuf to tune/mod ur car on ur own :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thank for the support cubes.

On the you tube video i did claim to have 600 hp @ 20psi. lol, after sitting in a real car that was a supra with a t51r. i new my car was over rated, i cant change what i said, so please don't take it to haert. i'm still think that this site out of all the other is the site that can come out on top if everyone was to be understanding. ok to make eveyone happey the car is only 20 hp ok. lol.

we had some races down here and i'v beaten some stock gt-r's and mod pulsars gtir and mod silvias. i'm using the rb25det in the r33 body as a ginypig.

i'm planing on putting a fully built motor (sending 25000 usd on the motor) in a 200sx. check the other link out please

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9m2QV5QEK_U

this is why i'm asking questions.? i'm planing on making 800hp. i think i'll go with the t51r turbo that thing is crazy. looks good to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its all good... Try not to take a little ribbing from us Aussy's too hard. Its our strange nature.

You can edit the comments section of your vid on you tube.

I believe with it holding 20psi to peak power with std cams and manifolds some where around 280-300rwkw (400rwhp) So damn close to 500hp at the fly.

I've got basically the same turbo GT3076r .82 IW (HKS3037ProS) on my rb30det but it has cams (265/265) and it made 302rwkw on 17psi. Prior to cams it did struggle to nudge past 280rwkw.

To push 800hp on pump fuel you will most likely have to drop in a set of solid lifters, new valve springs, machine the buckets and run 10.50-11mm lift cams and not to forget a nice exhaust manifold.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its all good... Try not to take a little ribbing from us Aussy's too hard. Its our strange nature.

You can edit the comments section of your vid on you tube.

I believe with it holding 20psi to peak power with std cams and manifolds some where around 280-300rwkw (400rwhp) So damn close to 500hp at the fly.

I've got basically the same turbo GT3076r .82 IW (HKS3037ProS) on my rb30det but it has cams (265/265) and it made 302rwkw on 17psi. Prior to cams it did struggle to nudge past 280rwkw.

To push 800hp on pump fuel you will most likely have to drop in a set of solid lifters, new valve springs, machine the buckets and run 10.50-11mm lift cams and not to forget a nice exhaust manifold.

I was planing on running vp racing fuel. 116 octain. but that will be after i reach the limits of this motor first.

Cubes do you think tomei cams 256/256 cams will be a power adder for an upgrade on stock valve train.?

what cam spec have you heard of that can help in this situation. I heard a lot of bad talk about adding cam if people are not going to upgrade valve spring etc.

I know that the car makes good power for our standards. I'm beating gt r's over here man, now i know that this can only happen over here, as i know the gt r's are a better machine. in the matter of 6 months i went from last to first and I'm the man everyone is looking to beat. I must say that all my winning came from this site and people like you helping and writing about things that keep use all winning.

if I'm willing to put the head back off what upgrades would you recommend.

thank s again Cubes

you attitude will make you very prosperous in life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its all good... Try not to take a little ribbing from us Aussy's too hard. Its our strange nature.

You can edit the comments section of your vid on you tube.

I believe with it holding 20psi to peak power with std cams and manifolds some where around 280-300rwkw (400rwhp) So damn close to 500hp at the fly.

I've got basically the same turbo GT3076r .82 IW (HKS3037ProS) on my rb30det but it has cams (265/265) and it made 302rwkw on 17psi. Prior to cams it did struggle to nudge past 280rwkw.

To push 800hp on pump fuel you will most likely have to drop in a set of solid lifters, new valve springs, machine the buckets and run 10.50-11mm lift cams and not to forget a nice exhaust manifold.

I was planing on running vp racing fuel. 116 octain. but that will be after i reach the limits of this motor first.

Cubes do you think tomei cams 256/256 cams will be a power adder for an upgrade on stock valve train.?

what cam spec have you heard of that can help in this situation. I heard a lot of bad talk about adding cam if people are not going to upgrade valve spring etc.

I know that the car makes good power for our standards. I'm beating gt r's over here man, now i know that this can only happen over here, as i know the gt r's are a better machine. in the matter of 6 months i went from last to first and I'm the man everyone is looking to beat. I must say that all my winning came from this site and people like you helping and writing about things that keep use all winning.

if I'm willing to put the head back off what upgrades would you recommend.

thank s again Cubes

your attitude will make you very prosperous in life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mark,

it seems like your questions are answered, mainly that if you're are chasing 600hp then you will need a bigger turbo. Some tomei poncams will net you more top end, as well as higher average power and torque throughout the range.

It sounds like you guys have fun over there, how lenient are the police?

Do you race from standing start or rolling run? because if you go to a bigger turbo you will likely just end up wasting time trying to get traction off the line, or bog down and then lose traction as it comes onto boost.

if you want to be unbeatable, get one of those gtr's and apply your modding skills to that! if you go nuts on a RWD platform, you may get taken by less powerful cars due to circumstances mentioned above. Great work building it all up yourself and then tuning it!

Dont be discouraged if you come across some unconstructive people, this is the internet afterall, but as you know there are some really great people on here that are happy to offer their help.

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mark,

it seems like your questions are answered, mainly that if you're are chasing 600hp then you will need a bigger turbo. Some tomei poncams will net you more top end, as well as higher average power and torque throughout the range.

It sounds like you guys have fun over there, how lenient are the police?

Do you race from standing start or rolling run? because if you go to a bigger turbo you will likely just end up wasting time trying to get traction off the line, or bog down and then lose traction as it comes onto boost.

if you want to be unbeatable, get one of those gtr's and apply your modding skills to that! if you go nuts on a RWD platform, you may get taken by less powerful cars due to circumstances mentioned above. Great work building it all up yourself and then tuning it!

Dont be discouraged if you come across some unconstructive people, this is the internet afterall, but as you know there are some really great people on here that are happy to offer their help.

cheers

thanks for the heads up SLY33

Off the line isn't that much of a problem as i use one of the best tire and boost controller on the market they call it the skyline's of boost controller and cost about 1200-1300 usd. check the link of http://www.world-motorsports.com/products.php a cheaper model is the pbc this unit is about 500 usd, I can boost by gear in drag mode or street mode. its a touch screen unit.

I really think if it wasn't for this contoller the 4wd crew would have had there way with me.

I will get a gtr, but I'm trying to be the best in my class even, out of my class people with gtrs thought they can kick my as-

but it just didn't happen. i some ways i like the fact that a gtst can beat a gtr by running it down and pasting it .

It give all the people hope that has gtst skyline's. Over here there is way more gtst than the hole 2 gtrs on this island.

The police, man over here they ain't no problems. i guess you can say the love the races. we can even drink and drive lol.

we have a saying (It's better in the Bahamas). the only thing i hate is the fact that we have to pay 65% duty on car parts, but theres ways around that i guess.

I do know that the GTRS are the mean machines. In the coming future i think i will buy one r33 model i'm planing on putting a t51r on the bastard.

can you tell me what spec tomei poncams to use on the gtst. with stock valve train. and another spec use springs and valves etc.

i don't mind pulling the head back off.

thanks keep up the good work ASU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

lol well going back to the rb25det burnouts, i think this a f**king solid effort lol, new zealand style

check out his other vids aswell, looks like that car gets a good solid raping lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...