Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HKS Hypermax performer coilovers. suit S13 2000kms old 7kg front 5kg rear(5 STUD ONLY!!!!) $1800

Cusco castor rods suit s13. these are 500km old perfect condition $350

DMAX ducktail/boot spoiler to suit S13 in gelcoat never used. $250

Power FC suit S13 no hand controller. rough tune for stocko setup $600

Power FC suit RB26DETT with controller. can be seen working. $850

Bride zeta 3 in black on modded S13 rails. $520

Bride ergo? high rise. R32 bride rail. $550 or work out changeover for stock GTR seat.

WORK XD9 18x9 +20 and 18x10 +18 direzza dz101s front

wanli tyres on back. all tyres brand new. around $900 of tyres. $2400

PAIR Work XD9 18x10+18 with brand new Fullruns $1000

Full R32 GTR 5 stud convo for s13 incl s14 LCA's, new front brake lines

bolt on kit. $1300 or $1200 changeover for your 4 stud gear.

s13 SR20det Greddy fmic kit. $300 changeover

full s13 exhaust with screamer, 3inc all the way back to cannon. $450 changeover

17" panasport G7's??? 17x9 all round. VERY RARE IN AUS.

Stand out from the crowd. ive seen 1 other set in aus they have

Zeetex tyres around 70% front 40% rear. $offers? i havnt seen any sell so cant really give you a price.

R32 catback exhaust. came off my slide car from jap. stainless

high quality. cannon and muffler. very quiet but opens up on boost. $150

also added 2x blitz blow off valves on pipe ready to go. $250

R32 DE-CAT pipe, nuff said $100

apexi EL2 boost guage $140

origin front bar and side skirts. nearly brand new. few little marks on front bar. BLACK. $550 both.

040 fuel pump. $120 changeover only. (swap cradles. take 5 mins)

tein FLEX s13 rear coilovers. some small damage from hitting rear camber arms somehow. nothing that effects performance. $400

ill only swap for full CA18det engine package. (might consider non turbo) for one of my items plus cash either way. i dont need anything else thanks.

pics up for some items. others like coilovers, castor rods and 5 stud stuff are still in or on the car so can be test driven before sale. im 100% confident on everything on the list. i purchased most things new. once i get payment for larger items i can sell off smaller items. dont be afraid to offer me cash for something but if i get "hey bro will you take $300 for the coilovers coz ISC is cheaper" dont expect a nice reply.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231986-hkscusco-bride-yada-yada/
Share on other sites

yeh age ill get one up asap. power FC is for redtop SR20DET, CA one would be twice as much.

BRIDES- SOLD

APEXI gauge-SOLD

XD9s are pretty much perfect. ive only had them for about 3 months? car has been off the road for a month so...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...