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Hi,

My R33 wont start, Crank, Windows wont go down, Head unit wont turn on and Tein EDFC comes up with ERR/ERR trying to set the dampning which is on the same circuit as the headunit.

Was fixing a few faults with my car alarm last night as i couldnt program the alarm as it had been hooked up for a positive door switch system. I reversed it and connected it too the (-) input. Anyway all tested ok everything was fine.

I then noticed that the starter wire for the alarm was not connected to B+ so i hooked it up too the back of the main power wire for ignition as per Viper 5701 Manual. WHen i was soldering this wire i accidentally shorted it from the power wire to the chasis of the car for a split second.

I taped up the connections, didnt think much of anything till I tried to program the alarm, went to lock the doors but had the door motors go crazy, I tried starting it but it wouldnt crank (and i couldnt hear the relay switch either) I thought it was a flat battery however have charged it overnight and is now showing full, i did keep cranking it previously to work out what the fault was with the remote start prior to finding that disconnected wire and did notice that it seemed slightly flat.

When i go to start it i get the engine light and the one under flashing, My PowerFC lights up and handcontroller starts up giving Battery Voltage at 12.6v.

There seems to be voltage just no current to drive anything? (the door locks will still lock if using the passenger lock switch inside the door, however when trying to arm the alarm they wont, just makes some weird noises and once again chirps but seems like theres no current there once again. After i have tried to crank it 2 lights come up and flash together one is the engine light and theres another one below it i cant remember.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Edited by SLYDA
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232066-r33-wont-crank-electrical-issues/
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Hi,

If you have had a short cicuit the first thing I would check would be for main power supply to the back of the ignition switch, all fuses need to be tested with ignition and immobiliser disarmed, all fusible links need to be checked particularly mains, ignition mains, battery and since it is a Viper alarm check to see if the immobilser relay is energizing (clicking) with ignition on and not falling away during crank or if unsure just bypass it for the time being, I mean its not like this single immobiliser is going to save your car on its own anyway, lol, if you still get no crank just reply in this thread or email me on my business email, telephone is another option.

Cheers and Good Luck,

Leon

thanks for replying :whistling:... it was actually the Ignition fusable link in the fuse holder in the boot. I got home today and had no voltage anywhere (no dash lights, no accessories, no B+ on the ignition. Im guessing the fuasble didnt fully blow? and was allowing a very very small amount of current through till it completley failed which completley got me as i was seeing voltage still on ignition and other points i tested last night.

I have a Viper 5701 the car alarm installer has made a few mistakes i have corrected ie, connecting the (+) door trigger wire to a (-) trigger system, connecting the back up battery module to the (-) input instead. connecting the bonnet to the boot sensor and the boot to the bonnet.

Anyway ive double checked all the connections. Tested everything was connected correctally and when i activate the remote stat and hit the arm key the car keeps running? Its meant too shut down. It has a turbo timer function which is not enabled) and the car has a specific manual shut down process. (foot on break pull park brake up, take foot off brake hit remote start button get out and arm the system.

Any ideas? :D coz its got me..

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