Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just recently i fitted some DBA gold rotors to my 32. but i think i made ther mistake of using Bendix Ultimate pads... the squeel like a garbage truck!!!

is there anything i can do to stop or even just minimise the squeel... i heard something about copper grease, aparently it helps?

any ideas?

cheers

LOL!

I think you might have bought 'Race' brake pads and the probley have a bit of steel in them, which is why they squeel.

I drove a GTR before with 'Race' pads in and it takes a race track to warm them up and not to squeel.

Do what Blind elk said and see how you go.

they rnt race pads they are definatly bendix ultimate ...

how do i bed the breaks .... ?

well....did you read the instructions or the box you got the pads in? all pads have to be bedded in properly that is a major cause of squealing if not done properly.

since you've already put some klm on them....

pull the pads out

take the current surface off them using a bench grinder or similar

clean the discs and pads with brake cleaner

put them back in

head out to a nice quiet road, do about 3 stops from 120-40 until you can smell them cooking. then drive without using the brakes for a couple of minutes to let them cool

done. your pads and discs are now set to each other's shapes.

if they still squeal after proper bedding in you may need to try:

putting the anti squal shims back in (you kept them right?)

anti squeal compound on the shims

machine the discs to make sure they are nice and flat

copper grease on the backing plate where it touches the caliper's pistons

rebuild the calipers with new piston seals.

road pads including ultimates do not squeal unless there is a problem. even most race pads are fine. for instance the ones from my avatar don't squeal and as you can see they are pretty agressive.

Alternatively you could just go to the track :(

I recently put on a set of Ferodo DS2500s and they were squealing like a bitch. After a day at Wakefield they haven't made a squeak since. Although Duncan's solution sounds a lot safer than mine

^^^

Same thing happened when I put my Project Mu's on. I went out to bed them in with a similar process to what Duncan mentioned but they still squeeled a bit.

Went for a long night in the hills, and they were fine :)

i got the same pad. never had a probelm with squealing. if u bed the pads in properly they will last a long time.

try goin for a nice long drive and dont brake hard just ride the brakes + down gear at the same time to stop for the first 200kays and u should be fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...