Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just want to get a rough idea of how they work in different situations. am i right in thinking that theres normally a 5/95% split in normal driving and so theres clutches which are constantly slipping?

if you took the stagea out onto a slippery road where the front was constantly recieving more torque then this would be wearing the clutch packs? in these cases would it be better to lock them with the synchro button?

Um, kinda, but the clutches in a ATESSA transfer case are WET clutches like the ones you find in a motorbike, so slipping isn't really an issue for them, its normal operating proceedure.

There is an actuator (visible from the rear where the hydraulic line enters) that contains a plunger that acts on the clutch plates and takes drive from the chain emerging from the rear of the gearbox and engages them progressively as the torque requirements demand as dictated by the attessa pump (above the diff)

And the answer to your question about the syncro button, is no. Well, that's just my opinion, but unless you are having black ice type traction problems, its better to let the ecu's figure it out themselves. Just like when you put your foot flat and the trans (in a S1 - nfi idea about the others) automatically goes into "sport" mode, and the air con clutch disengages, the cars are pretty intuitive and you have to be trying pretty hard to confuse it.

  Stinky Rooster said:
Um, kinda, but the clutches in a ATESSA transfer case are WET clutches like the ones you find in a motorbike, so slipping isn't really an issue for them, its normal operating proceedure.

There is an actuator (visible from the rear where the hydraulic line enters) that contains a plunger that acts on the clutch plates and takes drive from the chain emerging from the rear of the gearbox and engages them progressively as the torque requirements demand as dictated by the attessa pump (above the diff)

And the answer to your question about the syncro button, is no. Well, that's just my opinion, but unless you are having black ice type traction problems, its better to let the ecu's figure it out themselves. Just like when you put your foot flat and the trans (in a S1 - nfi idea about the others) automatically goes into "sport" mode, and the air con clutch disengages, the cars are pretty intuitive and you have to be trying pretty hard to confuse it.

The synchro button is really only for take off - once you are at speed (i can't remember what speed - someone with a meter could tell you ) the computer over-rides the button and reverts to normal operation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...