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ok, so my best bet is to not reset/init but maybe tweak the maps a bit.

since i have a wideband installed i might see if anyone in perth can help adjust the basic tune to enable it to be driven.

or would it be possible to have the tune reloaded from when it ran stock injectors & afm??

thanks for the quick reply Cubes & everyone

Edited by norwest_rumbler
anyone got a real AP RB20DET pfc and datalogit ? Can someone make screen pics of all the configs needed to copy them into the gtr pfc ?

http://www.3rdgearvtec.net/Andys%20Videos/...RB20basemap.dat Hope that helps. I took it off my AP PFC not sure if it works tho cause I used the Apexi tool that was set for RB25 when I did.

If you have the datalogit they have the sample maps already there.

Transferring the details from the AP engineering map is a bad idea. Doesn't work.

I sitll have clean AP engineering maps from from the datalogit when I had mine.

Norwest... I wouldn't worry about starting off with a 'clean' map. Get the wideband on to it and it will be exactly how you want it anyway regardless how it started off.

The RB26 pfc appears to run smoother than my old ap engineering pfc. + it has air inlet temp fuel/ignition correction. I wouldn't have it any other way.

All though likely never experienced witht he rb20det when hitting load point 12 at 1600-2000rpm on the rb20 ap pfc the car would lean out and get stuck on that load point until it pushed past 2000rpm. Never could tune that issue out. I tried multiple AP engineering PFC's (3 in total). Dropped the rb26 pfc in and bam instant increase in low end torque as it wouldn't get stock on load point 10-12 at low rev's.

a perth member has offered to look at this fc with his datalogit for me so looks like it will all be sorted out now.

thanks for everyones input, ive learned quite a bit so far.

cant wait to get it now :(

cheers

When I first attempted this I looked and thought way too hard about it.

K.I.S.S (Keep it simple stupid) :)

Init the PFC

50% AFM correction.

Apply the appropriate Injector trim for the injectors you are running based on the 444 GTR injectors.

- The Datalogit allows you to enter a greater correction than the H/C does.

Select the appropriate AFM from the list be it RB20/25 or VG30

- If you wish to utilize the Q45 you WILL have to tweak one of the airflow curves

Select the appropriate O2 sensor type if you wish to use the O2. <-- Recommended to tune and leave the o2 sensor off

If you don't wish to use the IAT.

- Zero out the Air temp fuel and ignition correction

- Use an appropriate resistor and wire it up to the IAT pin outs to trick the ecu in to thinking you have one OR bridge the IAT pinout to the water temp sensor of which will require a rework of your cold start enrichment table as it loads the temp sensor as a result the ecu see's a lower temp than it really is.

If you do wish to use the IAT and its associated fuel and ignition correction grab a Coolant temp sensor from a VL/R31 or your RB20 and use that and wire it in accordingly. <-- Recommended

Then simply tweak the map accordingly. Definitely not rocket science. :P

andy assuming you are in norwest just take it to mark at hills motorsport in victoria ave. he can get it running properly quickly. has datalogit/dyno etc available to get it running properly.

As for knock sensors.

You will need RB26 knock sensors. I picked up two for $80 from the local wrecker. Nissan want $310 each when new :S

RB26 knock sensors are 'special/rare'. The SR20/VG30 etc knock sensor looks the same is cheap as chips but its a different part number. Unsure if it would work.

You will need two RB30E/RB26 Injector plugs for ~$8, a 4pin plug ~$5 from the local auto store and a 2 meters total of black/red wire wire ~$2.

Use the original plug chop the existing loom just after the origional plug and fit your new plug so you can swap back to the rb20 knock sensors easily if need be. Make your loom attaching the injector plugs bolt the 26 knock sensors up next to where the rb20 knock sensors usually bolt up and Duncans your uncle. Should take a couple of hours to complete.

The 26 knock sensors appear to be be a lot more active than the rb20 sensors (i've tried 2 sets when i had the ap pfc) max knock I'm seeing with the current tune is ~30-35.

hmm so what will happen if i just use my stock knock sensor? is it too sensitive with ths fc or not sensitive enough?

is it really necessary for me to change the sensor? can i just rely on the tuner using his knock detection equip/cans?

thanks

RB20 det sensors are different. So they simply do not work.

Its not necessary to change the sensors providing the tune is good you don't have to worry. I didn't change det sensors for quite some time.

Just keep an eye out for a pair of 26 sensors when they pop up grab.

so rb20's & 26's both have 2 knock sensors? (would make sense to me being a 6cy, but just want to make sure)

are they easy to change? i had a look & seems they might be right up under the intake manifold?

also ive been told sr20det use the same sensor?

cheers

Edited by norwest_rumbler
so rb20's & 26's both have 2 knock sensors? (would make sense to me being a 6cy, but just want to make sure)

are they easy to change? i had a look & seems they might be right up under the intake manifold?

also ive been told sr20det use the same sensor?

cheers

You will need RB26 knock sensors. I picked up two for $80 from the local wrecker. Nissan want $310 each when new :S

RB26 knock sensors are 'special/rare'. The SR20/VG30 etc knock sensor looks the same is cheap as chips but its a different part number. Unsure if it would work.

You will need two RB30E/RB26 Injector plugs for ~$8, a 4pin plug ~$5 from the local auto store and a 2 meters total of black/red wire wire ~$2.

Use the original plug chop the existing loom just after the origional plug and fit your new plug so you can swap back to the rb20 knock sensors easily if need be. Make your loom attaching the injector plugs bolt the 26 knock sensors up next to where the rb20 knock sensors usually bolt up and Duncans your uncle. Should take a couple of hours to complete.

Pretty much answers it just there. :D

They are up under the inlet manifold.

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