Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After rebuilding my RB26 with the following specs I have spun a bearing on no 2 after 2000kms. All of the other bearings are also hammered - and I believe it may be due to a clearance issue.

Here are the specs:

Aries Pistons and rings (86.5mm)

std rods with ARP bolts

ACL Race series bearings

STD oil pump (start the flaming....) oil pressure = 20psi hot at idle up to 80psi odd at high revs (ie good oil pressure)

Trust baffled sump (insert type, not weld on)

Castrol 10W60 edge syn oil

2xoil coolers

external filter block

Tomei head oil restrictor

The engine ran strongly and made good power (high 300rwkws), the knock recorded (pwr fc) was always <35, AFR always logged and spot on via laptop and wideband.

They should be the related specs required - please ask if you require more info.

My engine was built with around 2.5 thou clearance on the rod bearings, although the factory spec as per the manual is 0.8 - 1.5 thou. I am wondering if the greater clearance of 2.5 thou has killed the bearings and what clearances people are using in similar built motors of the same horsepower.

I am looking for ideas from people with EXPERIENCE / and or ENGINE BUILDERS of 400rwkw RB26 engines here - please don't post if you don't know what you are on about!!

Any help is greatly appreciated, I really don't want this to happen again!!!!

Cheers,

Andrew

Blue32

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232242-rb26-rod-bearing-clearances/
Share on other sites

Mines no fire breather, but my big ends were set around 1-1.5 thou and the mains I set at 1 thou. I was bit worried that the mains could have been tight, but it was with in spec. I have since completed 30,000km plus.

My Vl turbo done some 100,000km and I set the mains closer to 2 thou and the mains similar I think.....

My first imression was that 2.5 thou sounds rather loose for an RB engine. Remember that NIZPRO run what are considered to be tight clearences, like 1-1.5 for both mains and big ends...

Other than contaminated oil (or surge), detonation and clearence issues bearings are generally issue free.

I totally sympathsize with you.

Andrew, you are fairly fast at Mallala and your engine failed at the track. Have you consider other causes especially oil surge with your setup?

What oil pump and oil cooler have you been using? What was your oil temperature when the engine failed?

With the amount of g force you are doing around Mallalla, the Trust baffle insert may not be enough if you have a high flow pump. I think a Trust sump extension kit will help your oil surge

Edited by 9krpm

i run 2 thou on a 420rwkw rb26, has made over 450rwkw on dyno and no dramas with bearings. Im using acl race series if that matters. Has been running for 8 months with no problems. I got this clearance reccomended to me by a well known rb26 specialist workshop so i trust them 100%

Edited by unique1
i run 2 thou on a 420rwkw rb26, has made over 450rwkw on dyno and no dramas with bearings. Im using acl race series if that matters. Has been running for 8 months with no problems. I got this clearance reccomended to me by a well known rb26 specialist workshop so i trust them 100%

What oil pump are you running? I am starting to believe I may have had an oil delivery problem.......as well as the large clearances

your clearances are not the problem, but your machine shop should have advised you on what to run. usually run larger clearance when revving engine harder, i agree that you might have starved it. also Castrol WTF. how did you measure these bearing clearances?

What oil pump are you running? I am starting to believe I may have had an oil delivery problem.......as well as the large clearances
What oil pump are you running? I am starting to believe I may have had an oil delivery problem.......as well as the large clearances

jun high volume oil pump, gets around 27psi at idle and 80psi or so at full rpm when warm, i rev to 8500rpm usually. I also run the same oil as well (castrol edge 10w60)

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
×
×
  • Create New...