Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just got a high mount manifold and got 700cc injectors and

power fc and full 3in just trying to work out what turbo i should use

have been thinking of a gt30r with .63 rear housing but wat are ur appinions.

i dont want it to be to laggy but still want it to hi boost hard

sorta a street car and drift pig i'm going for

just let me know what u all think

thanks blocka

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232287-rb20det-what-turbo-should-i-use/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well laggy +GT30 frame + RB20 = laggy no matter what you do mate. Thats how it is.

If you want it to hit boost hard, i suggest a older T3 bush bearing hi-flow. probably the best turbo to be....

It goes like this... nothing... nothing... nothing... HIT HARD BOOST VTEC yO!

However, if you want a decent setup that is responsive, makes the RB20 look like a reasonable motor etc

HKS 2530 is the winner of the battle, 220rwkw with as much of a 'broad' range as you'll get. Anything bigger and your not going to see anything before 4000rpm

Thats just my thoughts anyhow. Im a response setup person

  blockasR32 said:
hey just got a high mount manifold and got 700cc injectors and

power fc and full 3in just trying to work out what turbo i should use

have been thinking of a gt30r with .63 rear housing but wat are ur appinions.

i dont want it to be to laggy but still want it to hi boost hard

sorta a street car and drift pig i'm going for

just let me know what u all think

thanks blocka

+1 on the HKS 2530 setup.

If you want something a little different and you are willing to adapt, anything like a 2860RS, 2871R etc will do. Just need to adapt to the manifold and dump etc. Same as if you were going for the 30R.

With the right head setup, a 30R with a .6 rear will see 1 bar before 4500. There are a few better options for better response in that range though. External gated 3076R or 3071R, these are more responsive than the 30R due to the smaller turbine wheel but still retain a good sized compressor for overall hp.

  R31Nismoid said:
lol

whats funny?

do you think the calibration on a dyno will always be accurate?

on my tacho on the street it was showing me i was making full boost just befor 4k, dyno showed it to be just after 4200 and the rev limit went to 7800 where the ecu was set to 7200.

3071 or 3076 with .63 rear externally gated sounds pretty good or wat about a 3037 with a .63 or .7 rear and a .6 front

i know that with the rb20 i wont get to much so i will eventually do a 25/30 combo but that wont happen for about a year

so how much would i be looking at and where can i get one

Edited by blockasR32
  Wheezy said:
I had a GT30 0.63 sitting there for my 20.

Sold it and purchased a Trust TD06L2.

The guy who purchased the GT30 put it on a 20, made 240rwkw on 20psi.

I make 277rwkw on 18psi with heaps left in the thing.

that doesn't sound right for a GT3076R.

you must've had the smaller version GT3071R (with smaller/cropped turbine wheel) or the tune was bad.

  RS500 said:
that doesn't sound right for a GT3076R.

you must've had the smaller version GT3071R (with smaller/cropped turbine wheel) or the tune was bad.

It was not a 3076 or 71, it was the 3082, and I never used it.

The guy who bought it reckons his ecu he was using could not handle it......(strange for an aftermarket ecu :D, you are correct that something was holding it back however; my finger points at tune)

there are only two opitions in my mind for a rb20

1. 2530 GTRS

2. TD06LS

both excellent response with great power

if u want to do 25/30 save your money and do it properly stick with the stock turbo till u build it

  RipNGrip said:
there are only two opitions in my mind for a rb20

1. 2530 GTRS

2. TD06LS

both excellent response with great power

if u want to do 25/30 save your money and do it properly stick with the stock turbo till u build it

go the HKS 2530 i got a t04 on mine and is laggy as all hell

  Wheezy said:
I had a GT30 0.63 sitting there for my 20.

Sold it and purchased a Trust TD06L2.

The guy who purchased the GT30 put it on a 20, made 240rwkw on 20psi.

I make 277rwkw on 18psi with heaps left in the thing.

L2 is gods gift to RB20... end of story.

  RipNGrip said:
there are only two opitions in my mind for a rb20

1. 2530 GTRS

2. TD06LS

both excellent response with great power

if u want to do 25/30 save your money and do it properly stick with the stock turbo till u build it

Just so people dont get carried away with expectation....there is nothing excellent about the response of a TD06 or GT-RS on an RB20. The 2530 is marginally better through the lower rpm range but loses out big time up top.

So, I agree with the saving money for the 25/30, if you are not going to be happy with puinchy 200rwkws or laggier 250rwks odd and will end up going 30...then just save your coin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • Anyone want to make me an offer to take my v36/g37 3.7l manual coupe in full? Off memory it was low 100k km but the battery is flat so can't tell right now. What's wrong. I had engine problem's that led to a nice clunk. It made it home but it wasn't pretty for the last few kms. Happened under revs. Sounds like bottom end.. never got around to fully checking or fixing it so the car has sat still and unregistered for a few years. Minor bump in front end set the pedestrian protection under bonnet airbag off and that was meant to be repaired, but while waiting for the repair (parts to come) I got the engine problem. The rest of the car is in decent condition. All drive line is good. All interior is good. Leather interior. Wheels in good condition and decent tyres although the ps4s are likely a little too old now it's sat still. Colour of the car is pewter off memory, the dark grey colour. In Camden NSW. Would need a tray back pickup.
    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
×
×
  • Create New...