Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now what i mean by 'spirited driving' is not really from traffic light to traffic light. With a mate on a rolling start ive pushed it and braked to start on a roll, over and over again. Then there was a point where i realised that i was losing power, getting BOV Flutter as if i have no BOV, and NO pod filter intake sound at all! The weird thing is, i only get this issue for about a minute, then it goes back to normal where i gain the power back, hear the bov properly and also hear the intake sound. If this was the first time, i would of thought i heard wrong, but this is the 2nd time it happened. THe first time was after abit of spirited driving in the same style as well.

Ive got a HKS SSQV BOV, and im not sure if its real or fake cuz ive just bought it 2nd hand privately. Im thinking maybe it could be the BOV as i haven't had this issue before i put the HKS BOV on. But its been a long long while since ive put it on and i haven't noticed it so far till recently since i haven't really had much spirited driving or track since.

What are the possibilities for this happening?

- HKS SSQV BOV ( LEAK?)

- My Stock TURBO?

Need some help on this guys. Thanks alot for any input!

thanks for the replies. If i block the BOV off completely, wouldn't i still need to give it a bit of pushing to wait for it to occur again? Cuz its very random.

Im going to try put the stock one back on to see if it solves the issue. So everyone is just agreeing that it may very well be the BOV and can be nothing else such as the turbo? Cuz the pipes are all fine and connected. Should be no leak but then again, its a random thing so... I don't get iT?

are you still running the standard rubber air intake to the turbo? have heard of these sucking closed, would explain the loss of turbo spool sound and so on

standard rubber air intake? Sorry but wats that? Everythings basically standard except K&N pod filter, EBC, BOV in the engine bay area. SO im assuming i do have the standard rubber air intake.

If this could cause the issues ive described, could you please help me out in more sense to myself plz?

the intake pipe (between the air flow meter and the inlet of the turbo) is fairley soft on a r34 gtt. sometimes when the car is under full load on boost it can suck the intake pipe shut, kinda like if u put your hand around it and sqeezed it together.

Most people go about fixing that problem by cutting the intake pipe in the middle and putting a metal joiner in it, or buy a aftermarket silicon intake pipe from just jap etc.

the intake pipe (between the air flow meter and the inlet of the turbo) is fairley soft on a r34 gtt. sometimes when the car is under full load on boost it can suck the intake pipe shut, kinda like if u put your hand around it and sqeezed it together.

Most people go about fixing that problem by cutting the intake pipe in the middle and putting a metal joiner in it, or buy a aftermarket silicon intake pipe from just jap etc.

oh serious!? thanks heaps barney for the help~ so i guess its not the BOV after all...

Ill go about replacing the intake pipe to an aftermarket silicon then.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...