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Engine Rebuild - Questions...

GTRKat

By GTRKat,
in Australian Capital Territory

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N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
What happened to your 1st RB30 combo? Wasn't it just finished earlier this year?
it blew up, something to do with the tune from memory.
So nothing mechanical related? Asking so I can have items checked on mine if there is a possibility of it happening. If it's tune related, meh - mine's in as good a nick as can be.

Thats what I was led to believe (amongst other outright bullsh!t) but after pulling the motor out it was actually oil surge and oil temps that killed it. Been fixed now. Moral of the story is to not go to track days with only baffles, they're not enough if you have a half serious oil pump. Stan what oil pump are you using?

A little update... My head is finished (have pics coming) and apparently looks so good it's a shame that it has to go back in! It will all be assembled and ready to go so the engine will be back to my mechanic on Monday.

Yay everyone cross their fingers for me getting my car back in just over a week!!!! :)

*crosses fingers, eyes, arms and legs*

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satanic Grand Master

satanic

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Stan what oil pump are you using?

Just your typical Nismo N1 unit with the JUN Crank Collar; we have numerous Oil Control measures in place though to keep temps and flow to optimal levels.

You were running a Trust / Jun pump? For such an expensive item I'm surprised that it broke / failed on you.

How much longer are you from finishing again?

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
Just your typical Nismo N1 unit with the JUN Crank Collar; we have numerous Oil Control measures in place though to keep temps and flow to optimal levels.

You were running a Trust / Jun pump? For such an expensive item I'm surprised that it broke / failed on you.

How much longer are you from finishing again?

some oil control measures are a band aid solution for a poorly clearanced and/or assembled engine. Oil will never easily return to a sump that is positively pressured when the oil happlily lives in the head....think about it. Steve-o your engine would have been fine filling it with an extra litre of oil if it was built properly...being an RB30 im sure it wasnt driving the pump as hard as a high revving 26. Some of australia's fastest road registered circuit cars run std sumps, none of this useless rear oil drain crap etc. The rear oil drain would act more as a vent for pressure than a drain for oil, if you want to run over clearanced engines then a sump vent is what is needed to allow oil to return to sump as it doesn't have to fight against air pressure. The rear turbo drain to a vented can works well to relieve sump pressure.

Most of the american style piston manufactrers recommend the same piston to bore clearances as they do with their low revving normally aspirated V8 pistons which is wrong. The are under researched and tested and thats why most forged engines using these products have blow-by issues...why do Jap pistons run clearances sometimes 1/2 of what the yank stuff does?...because they know what works as they have done the 'legwork' on their products.

Their is more to getting these engines right than just slapping them together.

this is not meant to have a shot at anyone...just some food for thought.

Edited by DiRTgarage
satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Standard sump being used, no baffles, nothing but the fins removed to clear the bottom of the crank I believe.

Been going for over 1,000km (everyday driving & a few dyno sessions) - hasn't skipped a bit. The measures I was talking about have been detailed many times before on this forum - I wouldn't call them a band-aid fix as you're not 'fixing' anything during an engine build, you are providing for all situations that can happen to your engine.

Until you start it up, drive around and it goes boom; you won't know if it's a poorly clearanced and/or assembled engine. By that time, damage done, band-aid not needed - call 000 instead.

BTW: Custom set of pistons from Mahle in my donk; I'm pretty sure they've done their homework too :P

GTRKat Grand Master

GTRKat

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Engine goes back to mechanic tomorrow there was a parts delay... No car for me this week, should be next week instead, still in time for the Chrissie cruise!! Don't jinx me you f**kers :P

Will try and get Autotech to run it in on the dyno for me now instead otherwise I prolly won't be able to get it run in properly and fully tuned this year.

But paint is all done car is back at Autotech waiting for her heart to be put back in!! :P

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
Standard sump being used, no baffles, nothing but the fins removed to clear the bottom of the crank I believe.

Been going for over 1,000km (everyday driving & a few dyno sessions) - hasn't skipped a bit. The measures I was talking about have been detailed many times before on this forum - I wouldn't call them a band-aid fix as you're not 'fixing' anything during an engine build, you are providing for all situations that can happen to your engine.

Until you start it up, drive around and it goes boom; you won't know if it's a poorly clearanced and/or assembled engine. By that time, damage done, band-aid not needed - call 000 instead.

BTW: Custom set of pistons from Mahle in my donk; I'm pretty sure they've done their homework too :P

Yeah the Mahle's are pretty good...German engineering...what piston to bore and ring gaps are you running with them?

I can put my fingers over the rocker breathers after inital run in and gauge when an engine is too loose for street application and wont do the miles. My drag engines breathe a little more but need to due to the high boost and rpm they see and low miles before each teardown.

Red R Racing, Croydon, Racepace, Godzilla Motorsport etc dont use most of the 'Sydneykid thread' crap in their engines to control oil...why? Because its not needed if its built right.

Kat, how much were the pistons out of balance out of the box in your set?

Edited by DiRTgarage
N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
Just your typical Nismo N1 unit with the JUN Crank Collar; we have numerous Oil Control measures in place though to keep temps and flow to optimal levels.

You were running a Trust / Jun pump? For such an expensive item I'm surprised that it broke / failed on you.

How much longer are you from finishing again?

I never said the pump failed, the pump is perfect. The crank was fu(ked but the pump is perfect.

Should be running it in again this weekend or next weekend just waiting on a couple of small bits to be painted and returned. Its the usual case of people saying they'll do something, then not doing it on time.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Both myself and my wallet agree with you. At least im getting rebuilds at a decent price now

This one has different clearances and a lot more boost though, so it will be interesting to see how it goes. 500hp atw should be a walk in the park for it.

GTRKat Grand Master

GTRKat

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Hopefully I've tackled my last little drama before she is all finished... Haha found out yesterday my clutch wasn't in bad shape so I had to do some quick looking around to see what I got get in as short a time as possible.

Settled on an Ogura twin plate.... So yes now I get to look like a retard for the first few weeks after I get it back as I stall and hop everywhere.

Out of curiosity has anyone else got one of these?? What clutches are the rest of you using??

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Have you paid for it? If not, get a nismo twin - they're THE best twin plate. Takes up like a single, you wont stall it. Will cop a beating if you like 8000rpm launches. Very positive on the uptake between gears if you're driving quickly. Well priced. Doesnt rattle. Didnt slip once and i had punished the thing

Had one of them in my car before, now have OSGiken R3c (triple plate, big clamping pressure, rattles a tiny bit, does not slip), recommended but not for launches and cost is high

GTRKat Grand Master

GTRKat

Posted
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Posted

Yeah already paid for it and it should arrive Monday. I've heard a lot of good things about these clutches plus I have actually driven a car that had one in it and didn't have any dramas. Obviously like all clutches it will take some getting used to!

I only found out Thursday and didn't have time to f*ck around.

GTRKat Grand Master

GTRKat

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I want it on the road so bad I almost put a crappy single that I knew wouldn't last :)

But found this clutch at the right place at the right time. With our dollar I think $1330 delivered is pretty good!

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

I (and a lot of other people on the forums) know the feeling, i think earlier in the thread i predicted this would happen :)

1330 delivered sounds like a Slide price.....is it? Thats a good price!

GTRKat Grand Master

GTRKat

Posted
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Nope Slide didn't have one. Still chasing those boys for a receipt for everything else I've bought through them too.

I believe these clutches brand new are closer to the 1800 mark since the dollar has slipped. I was actually lucky enough to find that The Toy Shop in Newcastle had one in stock that was brand new that they'd just pulled of a GTR with a blown motor. They said it's totally brand new just without a box and suspect that it was fitted and the engine blew on the first run. Funny how these things work out :)

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