Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Well i installed my boost gauge and my Festo Pneumatics bleed Valve and headed off to Morpowa to get it tuned. Anyway the result was a very impressive 183rwkws at 11psi. The bleed valve was quite good, however there is a spike at around 3500rpm where it goes to 13psi.

Anyway im very happy, it feels alot more responsive, But i think my clutch is now slipping :P Im not too sure.

Now i need to heat wrap my front pipe and make my CAI partition, then A FMIC hehe.

Mods are trust 3inch front pipe, Trust cat back 3.5 inch, HKS airfilter, HKS BOV, THats really it.

Dyno printout to come later.

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i can answer that one cobo .. he was running the ssq bov and did have one of them hks idle stableizers but now i'm not so sure what he has since he fixed his afm problems ... and yeah i dont' think u've ever told me what u did to fix that problem u had dean?

joel ... i can also say that i've heard that tilbrooks reads much higher than alot of other dynos ... i've heard this from numerous amounts of people ... but its just a rumor so can't be 100 percent sure ... but definitely does not mean that tilbrooks dont' know what they're doing :(

It is only marginal I think well it used to be unless things have changed since almost a year ago.

Freebaggin made some where around 200rwkw on RPM's DD Dyno and he also made the same/very similiar on Tilbrooks Dyno.

I've had mine on RPM's and made 115rwkw when it was dead stock on a cold day, I also had mine on D&T Performance Exhausts DD Dyno on a 34degree day and it made 113rwkw.

Maybe its changed since then however. :(

Hiep: Sorry matey, Ok the problem was with the AFM and the loom connection plug, and perhaps the ECU? Anyway i replaced the ECU, Straped taped the connection to it to ensure it was getting correct conductivity, and then took apart the AFM, resoldered something that looked like it was not connected, and it all worked.

Now back to the thread. I think my clutch is slippin on boost in lower gears 2nd 3rd, but not under load in 4th gear. Isnt there more pressure on the clutch in a higher gear?

So im confused, I think i need someone to come out and drive it. BOOSTD, are u free this week at all?

Now i cant wait to get a FMIC and PowerFC, hahah with my imaginary money. Im so broke :D

The BoostD special is not a bad turbo.. :D

I some times think its the clutch slipping in third however its the diff occasionally open wheeling slightly. Not all the time.

It does it more so in first if anything as boost snaps hard. Some times axle tramps and goes sideways othertimes just openwheels slightly, goes no where and hits 7k.

Dean if you buy a cheap clutch, you get a cheap clutch. I would strongly recommend you dont make the mistake I did, and buy your self a twin plate. Can be had for $1200 second hand in good cond ($3500new) and they just wont let you down.

At the end of the day, you pay $550 for a single plate, then anoter couple of hundred for a pressure plate, then another $200+ plus to fit, then you pay another $1200 when the single shits itself, then another $200 to fit it a second time.

I know its a bit dearer, but it is so much better, and will take all the punishment you can hand out. If I had gone the twin straight up I would have saved myself $900 - thats almost a power fc, or a GTR cooler with change:)

If you are interested, pm me and I will see if I can get you a good deal on one second hand.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...