Jump to content
SAU Community

Dynoed my Car, stock ECU intercooler 183rwks

EnricoPalazzo

By EnricoPalazzo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Here is another thougth, James (D1 Garage) is headding over to japan in about 3 weeks, perhaps he could find you a decent second hand jap clutch and pressure plate? He has a couple for RB20 and SR20 at the moment which are pretty cheap, will probably hold a bit better than some of the local stuff (1 in particular) that I have tried.

Also, if you think its necessary I could take your car for a blast:p but if you think the clutch is slipping, it probably is:D

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

The spike is actually 14psi according to the dyno run.

Notice also how around the spike it looses power.

According to the dyno run it likes 12psi, makes most power around there. Hold it all the way through and it should make more power every where not just up top.

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by hippy

why does the boost go down after a while and doesn't stay at 12 psi or whatever u set it at?

Mine does exactly the same, peaks at 12psi and drops to 10psi by 7000rpm.

If its the stock intercooler, does people with FMIC have the same problem?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by gtstii

if the bleeder had a restrictor which is too small, wouldn't this mean that the actuator can sees less pressure - meaning more boost!

The restrictor isn't there to control boost it is there to give the bleeder its range of adjustment. Its up side is that it also helps ramp boost up harder as the wastegate actuator see's the pressure later but its down side is if it is to small it will cause spikes.

My bleeder was set to 15psi and would spike to 17psi then dribble off to approx 12.5-13psi.

The bleeder was better for the street as it would hit harder and feel snappier where as the EBC doesn't hit as hard. BUT it isn't spiking to 17psi so i guess that is where the hard hit with the bleeder was coming from. Fitting the EBC I picked up around 10-15rwkw as it now holds boost up top a little better even though the rb20det small arsed turbo doesn't like it.

gtstii Collaborator

gtstii

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Robo's

Did you put it in?

Does it bolt straight up, it doesnt look like it does?

Any difference in performance?

I installed it in about half an hour

Perfect fit to stock piping - straight bolt in

I felt a difference - a lot less restrictive up top.

definitely a worthwhile mod in my eyes if you dont want a mega front mount which attracts attention and adds lag.

in terms of volume, it is around 50% bigger than the stock r33 unit, so it must make a diff.

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by gtstii

I installed it in about half an hour

Perfect fit to stock piping - straight bolt in

I felt a difference - a lot less restrictive up top.

definitely a worthwhile mod in my eyes if you dont want a mega front mount which attracts attention and adds lag.

in terms of volume, it is around 50% bigger than the stock r33 unit, so it must make a diff.

If it fits easy an easy fit, i will do it, i can source one up for $100.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Robo's

Mine does exactly the same, peaks at 12psi and drops to 10psi by 7000rpm.  

If its the stock intercooler, does people with FMIC have the same problem?

Mine did with stock cooler, got a FMIC and it held boost all the way to redline.

Horsepowerinabox have a write up on the stock cooler saying it drops something in the range of 7psi at 6000+rpm, its on the cooler upgrade for R33 pages, worth a look.

If what they say is true, when you are reading 10psi at 7000rpm, your turbo is actually making 17psi as boost is measured at the plenum. This is probably why its not a good idea to boost over 10psi (or try to) with a stock cooler;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • drifter17a
      R34 power steering

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 power steering

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...